This month there are a few subjects I'd like to broach. Last month's piece, It Doesn't Count Unless You Stand, stirred up plenty of controversy. The title alone provoked many, and I received my share of both flaming and positive e-mail in response. November was also a phenomenal month for surf, particularly in San Francisco, and smiles could be seen up and down the beaches of Northern California.

Stand Up?
Thanks to all who took the time to respond to the Stand article, both positively and negatively. The comments ranged from strong anti-bodyboard rhetoric from stand-up surfers, perhaps unclear on the intent of the piece, to personal threats from enraged "spongers," who also may have misinterpreted my "opinionated" stance.

The aim of the piece was to speak to the blatant prejudices that still exist within surfing, and to question why they continue. I put myself in the middle of the debate to further show the inherent hypocrisy in many of these views. It was not my intention to "add fuel to the fire" as some of you indicated, but rather bring to light sentiments that persist in modern lineups, even though they are rarely discussed.

Taking a quick poll of the responses, you might be interested to know that approximately half were from bodyboarders, and of those, about three fourths were negative (an understatement) with the rest neutral. The remainder of the feedback was mostly from stand-up surfers, who either praised the story or at least acknowledged discrimination. A few kneeboarders chimed in (yes, they are still out there), standing up, er, rather, "kneeling" for their rights. There were also a few surf kayakers sprinkled into the mix, pleading for me to take a look at the "current" state of the sport.

Numerous readers pointed out that views vary significantly depending on location, both internationally and regionally, and that California seems to be one of the least tolerant areas in terms of alternative forms of wave riding. Several of you also called attention to, rightfully so, my gross emission of paipo boards (the original "bodyboards") when discussing Hawaiian surfing history. Thanks also to those of you who signed me up for several "educational" adult sites, as I continue to enjoy entries into my inbox on a daily basis.

For my part, I learned the following in the wake of the article:

1) "Spongers" don't mind being called spongers.
2) Riding prone on a paipo board is arguably one of the earliest forms of wave riding.
3) Longboards are viewed as problematic in many of today's lineups.
4) Bodysurfing generally commands the most respect among alternative forms of wave riding.
5) Kneeboarders don't seem to care what anyone thinks.

Sweet November
The run of quality surf in Northern California from the first week of November through the first week of December was nothing short of extraordinary. Those of you in San Francisco know that we were particularly blessed, with day after day of overhead swell and clean, offshore conditions. At one point I counted 14 straight days of good to excellent conditions in The City, and during the approximate 5 week stretch, there was an estimated 30 days of surfable conditions (not that I was counting). Santa Cruz also received its share of clean November surf, most of it centered north of town. Low afternoon sun, golden light, glassy green-blue walls. Ah, California. Sweet, sweet California.

For all the focus in surfing on crowds, localism, discrimination and the like, all it takes is an extended run of surf like this to show us how it can be - how it could be - if there were always plenty of waves to go around. Over Thanksgiving weekend for example, I heard laughter in the lineup, watched surfers stop and chat with each other on the beach, and actually held meaningful conversations in the water with friends and strangers alike. There was a noticeable lack of urgency to take, take, take. Instead, waves were observed and given, encouragement offered. At times I enjoyed spectating as much as I did riding waves, but that's always easier to say when your arms are rubbery and your knees weak from watery indulgence. Such is life when you already have 50 waves to your credit in a given week.

Good Vibrations
As many of you know, vibes in the water can make or break a session. Every surfer gives off their own energy during a surf, some of it positive, some of it negative. That energy can range from subtle selfishness to genuine stoke to blatant disregard for other surfers. It also greatly impacts others in the lineup. Case in point: early in the fall I was surfing an overhead south swell with fun peaks forming up and down the beach. I was enjoying a pleasant session, lucking into several good waves in a row that came directly to me without requiring much paddling. On my fourth wave or so another surfer who was well on the shoulder but still paddling for the wave nonetheless, actually swore at me as I took off and surfed by him. He yelled f*** you with as much animosity as I've ever encountered in the water. Paddling back out, I asked him politely if I'd done something wrong to upset him so much. When he didn't have a response to that, I asked him kindly if he could please either change his attitude, or take it someplace else. He continued to grouse and I attempted to ignore him, but the damage had been done. The fun in my session had been sucked away.

I try and remember that incident any time I might feel frustrated or if I'm having a bad surf. It's so easy to pass that frustration along to the person next to you and take them down with you. But here's a potential cure: try smiling in the face of frustration. Smiles are infectious, and can break a cycle of bad vibes. If the smile doesn't help change your own session, it will at least help brighten someone else's.

Get some waves. - DL

(12/23/02)

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