I put sunblock on the backs of my hands. I'm not joking. Even when I'm wearing a full wetsuit, I take SPF 50 and massage it onto the reverse sides of both hands, making sure to cover all exposed areas. I even cover the backs of my fingers. Why do I do this? I'm not sure exactly. Perhaps it stems from observing the dark constellations of sunspots you see on the wrists of certain senior citizens. I guess I don't want those to be my hands, even though it's probably inevitable considering the amount of time my mitts spend in the sun—sunblock or no sunblock.

Anyways, the point is, somewhere along the way I picked up the strange habit. This got me to thinking: what other surfing quirks have my fellow surfers and I acquired over the years? Surfers are a strange breed, and the ritualistic nature of the sport lends itself to peculiar behavior. I decided to compile a list, with the help of a few friends, of a few unusual rituals that you may identify with or even observe at your local break.

Waxing the Surfboard
This is the granddaddy of all surfing rituals. Wax provides a crucial connection between surfer and board. Indeed, as recently noted by Chris Mauro in Surfer Magazine, the mystique of waxing a surfboard is "like a little Zen ritual." Watch a surfer wax their board, and you're likely to witness a practice that is both methodical and highly personal. Regardless of how much wax I already have on my board, I will always rub more on prior to going for a surf. Always. It may be a superficial amount, but somehow it offers a strange confidence that goes well beyond simple traction.

Peeing in the Wetsuit
Many cold water surfers I know have a routine around peeing in their wetsuit. I personally never pee in my wetsuit until after I've caught my first wave. I'm not sure how I obtained this one—I only know that to do so will bring me bad luck, a bad session, or both. (Note: this ritual has been known to cause minor discomfort in the lineup on inconsistent days.) The question of whether or not to pee in your wetsuit to begin with—a timeless debate amongst surfers—is a decision every surfer has to make for themselves.

Pre-Surf Meditation
Many surfers I speak with perform a type of meditation prior to entering the water. For some, this might be a few minutes of quiet time, breathing and relaxing on the beach. For others, it can be a full-on spiritual exercise involving handholding and extensive prayer. Most, however, perform some sort of mental exercise, either consciously or unconsciously, before paddling out. With the exception of competitive and professional athletics, I can think of few sports in which everyday participants mentally prepare to the extent that surfers do. Then again, come to think of it I can think of few sports where peeing is also part of a regular ritual...

Waxing The Palms of the Hands
Okay, so this may be one of my own personal rituals, and I actually haven't heard of anyone else doing it, but I encourage everyone to try it. It's a recently developed quirk for me, and it really is quite functional. I've always been one of those who waxes the rails of their surfboards, for increased grip on the board while pushing to stand. I decided to take this a step further, and actually apply the wax to my palms. It's particularly helpful when you have sunblock lotion residue on your hands (see above). Somewhere along the way, this became a pre-surf ritual, and now I have a hard time entering the water without a quick, ah, "palm waxing."

The Pre-Surf Bathroom Visit
Let's be honest: surf preparation has a tendency to provoke certain urges. How many times have you been checking the surf, only to find yourself scrambling for a restroom moments later? This occurrence has for many led to the formation of a certain, er, routine prior to surfing. There are varying theories on the causes, ranging from general excitement to "fight or flight"-type responses. Some surfers I know claim that for them the smell of neoprene alone is enough to induce a bowel movement. Research actually reveals that there is a scientific basis for this pre-surf phenomenon-turned-ritual. It seems our enteric nervous system, which stimulates the gastrointestinal tract, pancreas, and gall bladder, can react to changes in our emotional state, such as fear or excitement. This can result in a hyperactive gastrointestinal system, and, in turn, the need to find a restroom—quickly.

Always Ride a Wave In
No matter how flat the surf goes, I will never paddle in without catching a last wave. Never, ever. Even if it means finishing a session on a six-inch closeout, I will attempt to ride it in. I don't know why, but I know something bad will happen to me if I paddle in without at least making the effort. Almost every surfer I've ever known adheres to this sacrament, which is probably why, even when the waves are inconsistent or nearly non-existent, you're likely to still see surfers patiently waiting out in the lineup for that last wave to come.

Get some waves. - DL

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