I traveled recently to surf a well-known spot here in Northern California. Not a remote spot, mind you, but one that was certainly not my home break. In other words, I was a visiting surfer. Now being a visitor to a foreign break can be at once adventurous, exciting, frustrating, and sometimes even downright dangerous. One of the ultimate thrills in surfing is being able to travel to surf different locations, and to be able to explore and enjoy each break's distinctive characteristics, and its subtle nuances. As I floated auspiciously in the lineup during a clean but inconsistent head-high south swell, I sat and pondered (as I often do) the complexity of the modern surf spot.

Every surfing environment is completely unique. In this regard, I liken surfing to sports such as mountain biking, rock climbing, or river rafting, where the activity can be done in a variety of diverse natural environments, each area having its own character. However, a surf spot contains much more than merely a distinct natural setting. A break develops its own personality, an individual spirit that is specific to the location, the environment, the people, and the type of breaking wave.

The wave itself, this moving mass of energy, has enormous influence on the disposition of a surfing area. The size of the wave, the shape, the length and the consistency all factor into the surfing environment. The wave affects the type of surfers who surf there: their age, ability level, experience, temperament, and personality. It dictates the type of equipment used, be it a longboard, shortboard, bodyboard, or no board. It even influences the type of people who might permanently live there.

Take, for example, Steamer Lane in Santa Cruz, one of the most widely recognized surf spots on the California coast—which is actually four spots in one. The distinctive high-performance wave qualities of The Point and The Slot attract young up-and-coming rippers, as well as incumbent professional surfers. When at size, Middle Peak draws big-wave surfers from around the area. And the gentle, sloping walls of small Middle Peak and Indicators appeal to a wide variety of surfers, from longboarders to beginners to surf kayakers. The notoriety of "The Lane" also assures that on any given day, there will be a representative hodgepodge of all of the above.

The natural environment also helps determine the persona of a surf spot. The cold water temperatures, larger waves, and sharky waters of Northern California, for example, do not appeal to all surfers. The actual topography of an area will affect the atmosphere at a particular locale. Some wave riders find wide open beaches and beach breaks more appealing. Others might prefer a rocky coastline, sprinkled with point and reef breaks. Additionally, the type of break will vastly influence crowds. A reef break normally can only hold a small number of surfers, courtesy of a cramped takeoff zone that doesn't tend to change very much. This leads to more competition over approaching swells and, in many instances, a pecking order in the lineup. A beach break, on the other hand, can usually hold more surfers, as there are often several peaks to choose from at any given beach. This disperses crowds considerably. In addition, takeoff zones at beach breaks often shift around, further spreading surfers out in the water. Finally, a point break tends to fall somewhere in between in terms of crowding, depending on the length of the point and whether or not the waves break continuously or periodically section off.

The specific location of a surf break will help shape its overall character. If the spot is in an urban area, chances are competition for waves will be more intense. Country areas or remote breaks, to the contrary, might have a more relaxed vibe in the water (although with today's mobile surfing population this isn't always the case). Location may also influence cultural differences, such as mainland versus island lifestyle, east coast versus west coast surf culture, and so on. (As an interesting aside, these cultural differences based on location are also what can alert local surfers to the presence of visiting surfers, or "outsiders"). The area or community itself can also help form the disposition at a particular break. Santa Cruz surf spots, for example, tend to have a very different vibe in the water than San Francisco beaches do.

By far the most influential component in the dynamics of any surfing environment is its people. On any given day, a surf spot will be comprised of a complex socio-cultural makeup of different identities and personalities in the water. As a visiting surfer, it is particularly important that one recognizes the dynamics intrinsic to an individual locale, and can adjust their behavior accordingly. I've made an attempt below to categorize some of the different roles one might expect to find at the average break:

• 1) Expert Locals—These are always the best surfers in the water at any given spot. Relying on pure talent and experience, they normally get the lion's share of good waves without having to fight for them.

• 2) Physical Intimidators—Hardcore locals who make up for a lack of talent with intimidation tactics. They get their share of waves through a mixture of experience, physical presence in the lineup, and bullying techniques. When in the lineup as a visiting surfer, physical intimidators are best avoided.

• 3) Journeymen—These wandering surfers tend to surf not at one particular locale, but rather a variety of breaks in their area. Often talented and experienced surfers, they are normally mellow and relaxed in the water.

• 4) Traveling Surfers—Surfers who travel from far away to surf a particular break. As unfamiliar faces in a lineup, they tend to approach the lineup cautiously at first. At many remote, internationally renowned waves, traveling surfers can make up a majority in the lineup.

• 5) Weekenders/Part-Timers—The weekend surfers, often of intermediate ability, are competent enough to catch waves, but normally do not have the presence or ability to have a very high ranking in a local pecking order.

• 6) Oldtimers—Oldtimers may also fall into one of the other categories, but are usually older, experienced surfers who may ride a longboard or, in general, take a more laid back approach to riding waves. Still, with their experience they are often able to nab their share of waves.

• 7) Grommets— he young bucks in the lineup, what they lack in experience they make up for in conditioning and enthusiasm. Beware the savvy grommet, for he can be a wave-catching machine.

• 8) Beginners—Self-explanatory, these surfers are just getting their feet wet, so to speak. Problems can arise when beginners get crossed up with more experienced surfers in the lineup, particularly if they have not learned proper wave etiquette or do not understand how to position themselves correctly in the water.

Macro-factors with respect to people, such as economics, education, ethnicity, or history may also play a large role in affecting a specific spot. There are certainly places known for their rugged, "blue collar" nature as well as access-restricted locations that cater to the more economically privileged. This can affect the collective demeanor in the water as well as attitudes towards visiting surfers. Interestingly, localism seems to run the economic spectrum, as evidenced by the reputations of areas like Oxnard on the low end, and Palos Verdes on the high end.

So the next time you wonder why we as surfers deliberate so much over where to paddle out, when to go, what spots will be good, etc., remember the complexity of all the different factors that may be going into that decision. Not only are we concerned about conditions such as swell, wind, and tide, but we must also consider the environment into which we will immerse ourselves. All of those characteristics that make up a surf spot ecosystem are likely being processed and tabulated deep within the surfer psyche. And once we paddle out, the assessment does not stop there. Careful study of the ever-changing dynamics of a surf break can mean the difference between catching ten waves versus one wave . . . or the difference between enjoyment and frustration.

Get some waves. - DL

Other articles by Dane Larson

Send this article to a friend

Send your comments to SurfPulse or discuss publicly in SurfPulse Lounge