I'm a big fan of surf movies. And when I say "surf movies," I am referring in this case to feature-length films that utilize surfing as a significant role in the overall plot, in addition to carrying their own fictional story lines. What surfer isn't a fan, really? There is something magical about seeing surfing portrayed on the silver screen, regardless of how badly it often gets botched. The filmmakers themselves may or may not participate in the sport—or even be familiar with it. However, as a viewer I tend to grant great leeway when it comes to technical mistakes, as long as the creators manage to capture a certain spirit around the culture of surfing. Not that it's an easy task, portraying surfing on film in a manner that's "true" to the sport, while still appealing to a wide enough audience to make a feature length film commercially viable. This is, mercifully I suppose, why there are likely so few movies in this category to begin with. However, because I applaud even the attempt, I am more than willing to pay good money to go see in the theater whatever effort the filmmakers might put forth—the good as well as the bad. In other words, bring on Blue Crush. Ahem.

In any event, three of my personal favorites are the 70's classic Big Wednesday, the 1987 surfing sojourn North Shore, and the crime thriller Point Break, released in 1991. All contain endearing qualities, from memorable characters to intriguing plots. And all without doubt include some corny portrayals of surf lore as well. When examining these three exceptional, er, entertaining films, a question arises, one that has perplexed me for years, as it likely has you as well. I speak of course of the eternal dilemma that surely resides in all surfers' minds: who would win in a match up between celluloid surfing luminaries Bodhi/Patrick Swayze of Point Break, Chandler/Gregory Harrison of North Shore, and Matt Johnson/Jan-Michael Vincent of Big Wednesday?

On the surface perhaps it seems an easy question. Put them all in a ring (or in the water) and see who comes out on top. However, aside from the fact that we can't actually do that, on closer inspection the quandary becomes a bit more complex. Who surfs better? Who's tougher? Who would win in a hand-to-hand fight? Who does better with the ladies? Who, for God's sake, is the better actor?

Although this would seem a very subjective exercise, I believe there are some absolutes here, some points of view that one would be hard pressed to dispute. For instance, of the three, Bodhi is by far the biggest risk taker, while Chandler is the most experienced and, therefore, the wisest. One must also take into account different time periods, as well as differing stylistic preferences. For example, should Matt Johnson really be penalized for the wearing of wide lapels and oversized collars in the latter half of Big Wednesday, or is he purely a fashion victim of his own era? Finally, can one judge the character/actor based upon the overall quality of the film? Or should that character be judged purely on their performance irregardless of the merits of the movie? Despite these inherent challenges, below I attempt to tackle the burning question of "who is the baddest" in the cinematic surfing world.

Surfing Ability
Bodhi of Point Break rips, and we also watch him charge the big stuff during the "50 year storm." The problem here is Patrick Swayze paddles like a ballet dancer (which he was by the way) who's afraid of getting his arms wet. Plus, he does dig a rail and tumble down the face of a monster in the final scene of the film. Chandler in North Shore is a pure "soul" surfer, and he's out there charging when Sunset and Waimea are breaking. In addition, Gregory Harrison reportedly does surf, and displays basic competence on a longboard during scenes without the aid of his stunt double. But it's Matt Johnson and Jan-Michael Vincent who are the purest talents here. Matt demonstrates his innate surfing ability by ripping on a wave while he's too drunk to stand on the beach, and his final wave in Big Wednesday will go down in history as one of the greatest single rides of all time. That combined with Jan-Michael Vincent's longboarding proficiency gives him and his character the edge. Advantage: Matt Johnson.

"Mano a Mano"
Chandler is more or less a pacifist, which isn't going to help him much in a fistfight. He's also got a few years on the others. Matt Johnson, while showing a natural propensity to get into drunken brawls, gets his ass kicked by Jack Barlow, a slight, if not effeminate, lifeguard. Bodhi, on the other hand, shows us on numerous occasions his ability to fight and fight well, often using the formidable Johnny Utah (Keanu Reeves) as his personal punching bag. In addition, Bodhi is pretty handy with a firearm, so there's no real contest here. Advantage: Bodhi.

Character
The character of Chandler, although believable, feels slightly contrived. Too many clichés follow this guru shaper around the North Shore backdrop. Patrick Swayze does his best to make Bodhi as profound as possible, but the depiction of an adrenaline-junky mystic also feels somewhat forced by the filmmakers. Matt Johnson however is the real deal. A care-free youth struggling with the transition to adulthood, we watch him battle with life's many challenges including friendship, war, death, and overall responsibility. And through it all, he still manages to hold onto surfing as a common thread. Advantage: Matt Johnson

Spirituality
The bodhi tree, according to Buddhists, is the tree beneath which one finds enlightenment. Bodhi substantiates his namesake by spinning mystical tales of giant swells, as well as meditating on the beach prior to surfing. But Chandler is a recognized guru on the North Shore of Oahu, one of surfing's true spiritual centers. He speaks with such calm and wisdom that it forces others to listen. Matt Johnson, for all of his icon status, seems to find his spirituality at the bottom of a bottle of booze. Advantage: Draw between Chandler and Bodhi.

"Woman-izing"
Our trio all emit hints of sexual prowess, yet surprisingly none of the films highlight much, if any, of their exploits with women. Chandler has long been married, and so can't really compete for the crown here. Bodhi for his part is seemingly celibate, preferring his relationship with the ocean to that of the fairer sex. And, although we see his ex-girlfriend is quite attractive, she has in fact dumped him for a young FBI agent. This leaves us with Matt Johnson, who ends up marrying his long-time high school sweetheart— hardly a picture of promiscuity. But he does manage to have sex with his girlfriend in the back seat of a moving car, while at the same time checking the surf along northern Baja. Advantage: Matt Johnson.

Acting Ability
All three deliver excellent performances, and carry their respective films in terms of overall acting talent. Gregory Harrison plays a believable North Shore shaper, and despite being saddled with some tough lines ("Go ahead, go shred."), he generally pulls it off. But this is Gregory Harrison, king of the bad made-for-TV-movie, and it's difficult to take him seriously. Jan-Michael Vincent is excellent in his portrayal of Matt Johnson, a care-free surfing icon who struggles with the prospect of growing up. However, Vincent's legacy of terrible television series (think "Airwolf") hardly adds to his credibility. Patrick Swayze delivers a surprisingly engaging performance as Bodhi, and despite the fact that he clearly does not surf, manages to provide what I feel is the greatest depth to his respective surfing character. Although I realize he may be a controversial choice, I give the nod here to Swayze. Advantage: Bodhi.

And The Winner Is . . .
In a close contest, surfing icon Matt Johnson, with his natural surfing ability and depth of character, edges out the mystic Bodhi, with Chandler finishing a distant third.

Get some waves. - DL

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