It’s another gorgeous, chilly November morning out here with sunny blue skies, just a slight breeze out of the east with large and in charge surf in the 1.5X’s to double overhead range with some bigger sets rolling in from time to time, depending on where you are on the beach. If you like it big, with a long, relentless paddle, than this is your morning. The inside is still doing the moving wet concrete wall thing, while the outer bar is fairing better with lots of the sectioned, shifty conditions going on with some beautiful double overhead or so waves rolling in with long, peeling shoulders, which make the eyes tear up in joy. The problem standing in the way is a paddle with a guess of 6000 duck dives and once you’re out there, staying on a working peak looks a bit daunting . However, if you got the board, skill set and time, than conditions might be worth your time. Enjoy the day.
Monday, 11/23/09 at 7:15AM PST
Published: November 23, 2009Posted in: Conditions
