It’s another gorgeous morning with sunny blue skies, not a breath of wind and surf that is definitely large and in charge. At the moment we have waves breaking out as far as the eye can see with double and triple overhead mackers breaking on the traditional surfing sandbars and larger sets breaking far out on the not so traditional ones. If there were a chair lift that could take you out to the line-up, than you might be able to score some triple overhead faces. However, factor out the chairlift and factor in a long, punishing, relentless almost impossible paddle than the reward vs. punishment ratio is skewed towards punishment. Overall, the waves are really fun to watch, but as far as surfing goes, it’s to much of a good thing and the surf is looking too raw and too large to have a joyous time out there.
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