SurfPulse » Jeff Clark

Why Jay? The Naming of a New Maverick’s Surf Contest

mike — Wed, 15 Dec 2010 02:27:25 +0000

Why Jay? The Naming of a New Maverick’s Surf Contest
In the Green Room with Mike Wallace

It has been a memorable year of extremes in the surfing world, including the untimely death of 3-time World Champ Andy Irons and the 10^th World title for Kelly Slater. Yet when Mother Nature makes the call, Maverick’s will once again surge front-and-center into the impact zone. On December 1 the window will open for “The Jay at Maverick’s Big Wave Invitational” and will remain open until February 28 (Ed: except for blackout period between Christmas Day and New Year’s Day).

By a fortuitous accident of geography, the reefs off of Pillar Point have for eons funneled muscular long-period winter swells into cavernous bowls and towering walls off of Half Moon Bay, which has comparatively only recently rolled out its welcome mat for this new threshold of surf legend and lore. For one epic day this winter our cozy hamlet will be thrown into a frenzy of activity as the contest machinery whirs to life, spectators jostle, shutters click, jet skis hum and locals either rejoice or duck for cover. Why, then, name the contest after a cheery, blue-eyed kid from Santa Cruz with the disarming grin who drowned on June 15, 2001, free-diving in the Maldives?

Well, in a world full of compromises, traffic jams, deadlines, dead-end jobs, bills, taxes and any number of other banal distractions, Jay lived his brief life with the rare sort of purity, joy and focus that most people never achieve in a lifetime. Pacifican Matt Ambrose vividly remembers the wide-eyed grom who “blew past me straight to the bowl” and said it “looked fun” before swinging into a past-vertical freefall. A less precocious veteran would have had a gut check, knowing that he’s way too deep if closer to the peak than Ambrose.

But from the moment Jay launched into public consciousness at age 16 on December 19, 1994, on the cover of Surfer, crucified in the maw of a feathering lip of that very same wave, he surfed his life in the sweet spot, right in the curl, making Maverick’s his second home. At times Jay was so excited to greet a rising swell, he was known to sleep overnight on the cliffs to be the first to crack it at dawn. Surely that’s grounds for residency, or squatter’s rights in our town? How many people can honestly say that their path inspires that level of passion?

In his too-brief 22 years, Jay’s preparation and athleticism was only outclassed by his infectious personality, which deeply touched those who knew him, surfed with him and loved him. And one person who knew him well was his Maverick’s mentor and tow partner, Jeff Clark. The pioneering big wave gladiator and the young gun built a special relationship in the water, logging countless sessions seared in the memories of a small cadre of awed witnesses. Clark recalls, “Mike Gerhardt, one of Jay’s best friends, brought me a bunch of stickers recently that said: ‘Never Forget Jay!’ And I said, ‘Mike, what do I need those for? I’ll NEVER forget Jay.’”

On just one of those many special days, Clark threw Jay the tow rope on an improbably giant and clean swell on December 22, 2000, and told the few remaining stragglers in the channel: “The sun’s going down, it’s 25-foot and we’re going to show you the future.” With the harbor horn bleating its lonely call, an amber mist on the water and the size of the swell amplified by the 20-30 foot spinnakers of spray and dark silhouettes of the waves, Clark zipped out the back and whipped Jay into a bomb. It was one of the longest rides ever witnessed at Maverick’s and you could only follow its progress by watching the ski on the shoulder with Jay completely engulfed by the shadows. Kicking out 45 seconds later, past the rocks, Jay would have probably continued all the way into Surfer’s Beach and high-fived a few groms if the wave hadn’t prolapsed back into the maelstrom.

As noted local sports journalist Bruce Jenkins sums it all up, Jay set the tone for future generations: “There’s only one thing about the Maverick’s contest that reminds me of Jay, and that’s the contest day itself. It’s always a huge success – fog, wind, rising tide, whatever, to say nothing of perfect days – because of the spirit in the water. It all came to a head three years ago, when Greg Long split his winnings among the five other finalists, but the Maverick’s lineup always shines when the very best, most committed guys are in the water. All the egos, sponsorship deals and personal agendas are cast aside, and nobody epitomized that attitude more than Jay. If he got the biggest wave on a certain day, he only wanted to talk about Grant’s wave, or Ambrose’s, or how good one of the hot young kids looked out there. His soul was pure; nobody could recall ever seeing him out of character.”

Jay had the audacity to live to the fullest, push over the ledge and laugh at life’s precariousness. In this sense, surfing Maverick’s is better characterized as a dance of life, rather than cheating death. This is why those of us chained to desk jobs and the daily grind are drawn to witness the contest. To be transported for a fleeting few seconds when time is suspended and a relatively puny human stands up, dwarfed by the enormity of the universe, pulls in, and comes back out to do it again, rejoicing in his good fortune to be alive in such a place.

As Maverick’s veteran Grant Washburn puts it: “For me, Jay represents the personification of stoke. Enlightenment is usually described as living in the moment, and enjoying every minute… and people work hard to achieve that state, but I think Jay was born with it. He had this very special disposition, a way of treating everyone like an old friend. He also had a habit of giggling at everything, and it was contagious. As we grow up, most of us lose part of the magical feeling that comes from just having fun. Big wave surfing is a way for us to get back to the wonder of being a kid. When a big set hits the reef, everyone becomes a wide-eyed grom. We all tap into our inner Jay – that amped-up 15-year old who was drawn to Maverick’s. Jay is that rare individual who makes a lasting impression on everyone he meets. If one of my kids had been a boy, he would have been named Jay. We had girls, but my wife liked the name Jaden… so I asked if we could throw a ‘y’ in there. Now my younger daughter Jayden is almost 6.”

Unlike Eddie Aikau, the Waimea lifeguard who sacrificed his life at age 31 on March 17, 1978, to save his crew stranded aboard the outrigger canoe Hokule’a in the Molokai channel, Jay didn’t put his life on the line to save others. Aikau made over a thousand undocumented rescues, but of course couldn’t be bothered to do the paperwork. Aikau selflessly put others’ lives before his own and, in addition to being a true waterman, set the standard for Aloha and Hawaiian pride.

In contrast, it was by living for the moment that Jay provided his lasting gift. Rising above pettiness, avarice, selfishness and other human frailties, he led by example with joy, camaraderie and inclusiveness that all too often seems to get lost in the rip tides of negativism. To “Live Like Jay” is to embody goodness, friendship and stoke. As contest organizer Katherine Kelly Clark recalls, “Jay was an angel come to earth. He used to come into my café and just light it up. I loved him like a son or a kid brother – nothing can replace him. Jay belonged to the world, crossed all barriers and rose above it all.”

What did these two legendary watermen share in common? Neither of our humble heroes sought the limelight; it came and found them. Both innately knew the secrets to living a simple life fully and sharing their gifts for doing so. Both, by their shining example, compel us to reflect on our own better nature. And, both were taken from us too soon.

Mike Wallace has surfed for over two decades on the East and West coasts, Hawaii, Europe and NorCal. Currently a resident of Moss Beach with his family of four, he can often be found haunting the beaches south of Devil’s Slide in search of the perfect sandbar with his blind dog, Moose.

(Article originally published (in modified format) by the Half Moon Bay Review and SurfPulse thanks them for the permission to post here.)

Save Martin’s Beach! Preserve the History of Public Access

mike — Sat, 28 Aug 2010 23:52:29 +0000

Save Martin’s Beach! Preserve the History of Public Access
In the Green Room with Mike Wallace

Heaven's Gate closed to the public

One of our favorite haunts is the not-so-secret spot of Martin’s Beach just ten minutes south of Half Moon Bay. A short drive down a winding, pot-holed road leads through scrubby farmland to the beach, allowing a quick surf check from the cliff before committing to the $15 parking fee on the rare occasions now when the gate is opened. Since the property changed hands, however, the new owners have painted over the old billboard advertising access and shut down access for all but the remaining residents. The epic beach survives, but appears to be lost to corporate greed and development. Or is it?

Straight out front of the shuttered Deeney family market lies a rolling and jacking reef break leading to the soft inside sandbar. To the south is a thumping reef that bends and stands up both south and north swells for hollow funnels at low tide and fun rollers at high tide. All this is set inside an amphitheater in the form of a unique pyramid formation of rocks that even features a tunnel running from north to south.

Generations of coastsiders and curious visitors have found the secluded and dramatic backdrop just the tonic for a quick get-away for surfing, fishing, and family frolicking. Forty-five ramshackle cottages squat in a worn vigil on the terraced cliff above the main beach, grandfathered in and pre-dating Coastal Commission restrictions. If you just squint your eyes a little on a bright sunny day, the peeling paint and decay blurs, and you could be transported to any number of Mediterranean villages.

Jeff Clark

Maverick’s pioneer Jeff Clark recalls the days when access cost only 25 cents and local families took full advantage of the mystical and multi-faceted playground, when “we used to paddle out, climb over the rocks and shoot the tunnel to surf alone for hours.” Now Jeff’s rebuilding a broken-down old powerboat to get back to the surf spots of his youth.

After years of working the land, owner Rich Deeney sold the property—rumored at under $40 million—and reportedly invested in land and a former B&B on the east side of Highway 1 to spend more time with the grandkids and less time herding cattle and growing hay. From the subterfuge and mystery surrounding the change of ownership, the predominant vibe has been a palpable sense of doom; current residents’ cabin leases will expire in 2021 and have no further claim to their property and lifestyle, while non-residents have been shut out. Strangely, several properties are still listed for sale, ranging in price from $110–175k in what amounts to a glorified rental, since the value will zero out in eleven years.

Martin's Oak: omen for poisonous attitudes

Some intrepid surfers we’ve interviewed have been rumored to park up on the highway and make the longer trek in to still surf Martin’s beaches, only to face trespassing threats and, in some cases, allegedly finding their tires deflated while attempting to get reacquainted with the area’s charms. One anonymous local was confronted by security guards when attempting to walk in to the beach a couple months back. He warned them in no uncertain terms not to touch his vehicle, claiming that it was a violation of California Coastal Commission law to deny access. One of the guards let slip that the “public” bathrooms were in a state of disrepair and this was the “pretext” for the “temporary beach closure.” Certainly, no attempt has been made to install portable toilets in the meantime, while just the fact that there were public bathrooms and a general store suggests a long history of public access.

"Temporarily closed"?

These reactions by the new owners are unacceptable and completely ignorant of the history of access and the loss to the community of slamming the gates shut. Just how wrong-headed this combative approach is will be proven when plans for development or changes on the property are inevitably undertaken. Even worse, the “temporary closures” may be a cover to demonstrate that public access has not been continuous and, therefore, is not legally defensible. Any attempts at zoning changes or new construction will face full review by the California Coastal Commission, where community input will be considered. In the meantime, it is up to coastsiders to bring pressure to bear on the new owners to reopen the property.

Martin's Beach: a setting that should be open to all

Local families have already started a facebook page, “Friends of Martin’s Beach, CA”, that has some great historic photos, and familiar names like Cunha and Duarte populate its pages, mourning the loss of their childhood memories. This is a great place to start to galvanize support to coordinate a campaign to reopen the beach that transcends generations and the attempts to shutter it for good from public access.

As the Friends page poignantly states: “This is for all of the people who loved Martin’s Beach, CA, and the way it was before. For all the families that spent their days fishing, watching the Pelicans and sea lions and enjoying the tide pools. Feel free to share your memories and pictures of one of California’s most beautiful and unique beaches.”

Joao De Macedo, Program Director of Save the Waves

As Joao De Macedo, Program Manager of Save the Waves Coalition in Davenport explains it: “It speaks volumes that one of the most legendary surfers in Half Moon Bay, Jeff Clark, is passionate about that reef. Public beach access is an important free resource for humanity—one of the most beautiful things. Like a natural theme park with sand. Even a limited entrance fee to maintain the beach is acceptable, but to completely gate it off is just wrong. The reef, tide pools, and unique rock formation have inspired generations of families, fishermen, and the local community. This is not just a surfing spot.”

Precedents for access have been set in communities such as Malibu, where wealthy residents attempted to block passage to and along the beaches with private security, fencing, etc. As the Coastal Commission states, “Along the California coast the general public has historically used numerous coastal areas. Trails to the beach, informal parking areas, beaches, and bluff tops have provided recreational opportunities for hiking, picnicking, fishing, swimming, surfing, diving, viewing and nature study. California law provides that under certain conditions, long term public access across private property may result in the establishment of a permanent public easement. This is called a public prescriptive right of access.”

The Surfrider Foundation has dedicated some of its finite resources to campaigning for coastal access, in addition to maintaining clean water, education, and other environmental programs. Under the topic of coastal access, the group cites the California Coastal Act of 1976 that states one of its main goals is to “Maximize public access to and along the coast and maximize public recreational opportunities in the coastal zone consistent with sound resources, conservation principles and constitutionally protected rights of private property owners.” Unfortunately, those the public’s rights tend to expire without community activism to uphold the law and establish and maintain easements for access.

Rufo

Rufino Hernandez Vega enjoyed soaking up the mystery of the spot and taking photos of its moody backdrop. Having grown up in Puerto Rico and Hawaii where beach access is vital to tourism, he warned: “What bothers me is that it seems like such a violation of our rights as human beings and our heritage. That shouldn’t be restricted, but enjoyed by all of us. Surfers, fishermen, and families are generally pretty green-friendly and conscientious visitors, so why are the new owners being so secretive?”

Rumors have swirled that “Do No Evil” Google purchased the property, though a knowledgeable local realtor suggested that an anonymous “Silicon Valley venture capitalist” was the new owner. A title search of the property reveals that 22325 Cabrillo Highway South in Half Moon Bay, 94019 has been divided into two parcels: Martins Beach 1 Llc for Parcel # 066-330-230 and Martins Beach 2 Llc for Parcel # 066-330-240. A “Limited Liability Company” (Llc) is a company structure that essentially shields the identity of the individual or company who now owns the property, as does the mailing address of 1760 The Alameda #300, San Jose, CA 95126, which is most likely the CPA or attorneys retained to create those companies.

Postcard from Paradise

A spokesman for the San Mateo Planning and Building Department was contacted about the beach closure and what building permits were being sought by the new owners. He acknowledged that his department has “an open investigation and cannot comment on the details.” This is actually critical, as it suggests that someone has already made a complaint about a zoning violation or that the new owner has made a petition for a permit to build or redevelop on the Martin’s Beach property. Ultimately, if the community’s access is denied, the community will have a say once the process is made public.

Martin's Beach in the old days: a long history of public access

The Coastal Commission requires that in the case of private housing development along the coast any entity requesting permits must provide an “Offer to Dedicate” or grant public access through their property to the beach vertically and laterally in areas where evidence can be found of long-term beach access for five years or more. Martin’s has been accessible since the 1950s and should amply qualify. The catch is that a government agency such as the city or county, Parks and Recreation, POST, or some other official group must accept the responsibility and liability for maintaining the easements for beach access in exchange for public title to those specified paths. If such an “Offer to Dedicate” is not accepted by an agency within 21 years, it can be permanently lost.

Surfrider also points out that the city of Half Moon Bay can specifically require that the new owners grant the access paths to the city directly in order to receive permits for redevelopment. That’s where public pressure again could be critical going forward. Surfrider Counsel Angela Howe warns that prescriptive easements can get sticky unless the public access was “continuous and uninterrupted” and the fact that the previous owners charged a fee suggests there was no apparent “right of access.” This could also shed light on the cynical tactic of the new owners actively interrupting public access, which then effectively becomes a self-fulfilling legal interruption. Common law equity, however, can still argue that access specifically to coastal assets should be retained where it has been available in the past.

Tim West

As local Maverick’s charger Tim West observes, “That beach area has been a great getaway from town, not only for a day at the beach stretching out in the sun, but also for bringing the family down for a picnic. The fishing is great since the water drops off pretty deep right from the beach. The people who live there are always respectful if you share the same vibe with them. There is a lot of history in this small community that has deep roots. We should be able to access the beach area without opposition.”

Ultimately, Martin’s fate may lay in the hands of the Coastal Act of California, Section 30604 (c), which provides that “Every coastal development permit issued for any development between the nearest public road and the sea or shoreline of any body of water located within the coastal zone shall include a specific finding that the development is in conformity with the public access and public recreation policies of Chapter 3.”

In the meantime it is up to the public to exert pressure, raise the stakes for the new owners and keep a spotlight shining on the issue. The campaign to “Save Trestles” in Southern California and “Keep the country COUNTRY!” on the North Shore of Oahu were successful precisely because of unwavering public support, spearheaded by the surf community. This set a strong precedent for the power of targeted protest, aligned with the legal resources of enlightened organizations like Surfrider and Save the Waves.

Now it’s time to Save Martin’s!

Sunset for Martin's Beach public access?

Warm to the Core: The Story of Isurus Wetsuits and Tim West

mike — Sun, 21 Feb 2010 03:40:21 +0000

Warm to the Core: The Story of Isurus Wetsuits and Tim West
In the Green Room with Mike Wallace

Tim West slashes back

Montara wetsuit upstart Isurus has teamed up with coastside charger Tim West to develop an innovative new line of high-end, buoyant, light and flexible wetsuits targeting hardcore watermen and women who tend to spend as many as 200 days in the water per year. Named after the Latin genus for the sleek Mako shark and inspired by suits developed for hyper-competitive triathletes, Isurus has leapt right off the starting line in an audacious attempt to marry superior materials with a tighter tolerance fit and high quality manufacturing geared toward NorCal surfer-athletes.

Wetsuits have come a long way since 1951 when waterman and physicist Hugh Bradner invented the first wetsuit (see A Waterman’s Tale: The True Inventor of the Wetsuit). Driven by a bygone ethic of invention for the greater good, and sponsored by the Defense Department, Bradner didn’t patent the idea that a person donning such a rubber garment didn’t have to stay dry to stay warm. As Bradner put it, “I don’t give a damn who thought of it first, as long as I’m not going around making a false claim.” Bradner died on May 5, 2008, at the age of 92 without ever receiving full credit for his creation. But his legacy lives on in those with the character to innovate and charge just for the love of it.

John S. Foster in Bradner wet suit prototype, ca. 1953

Flash forward to the present: the wetsuit has evolved from a stiff, ill-fitting, leaky strait jacket into a refined garment with warmth and flexibility as its main function. In the pursuit of those sometimes competing attributes, many wetsuit manufacturers have sacrificed durability and quality in the process. By infusing more nitrogen bubbles in the neoprene that is sandwiched between layers of nylon or Lycra, such suits are prone to deterioration and saturation within a couple of months of hard use, despite industry claims and warranties. The more durable 5-mm suits retain their thermal properties longer, but tend to be more restrictive, and even 4-mm suits can add pounds in water retention, equivalent to dragging around a bottle of water or small dumbbell in the line-up.

Isurus Wetsuits (http://www.surfisurus.com/)

Any hardcore surfer on the North Coast will tell you that the older a wetsuit gets, the heavier it feels, the less it insulates, and the longer it takes to dry, reaching a terminal point of diminishing returns at some stage in its finite lifecycle. There is nothing more irritating than pulling on a damp, clammy wetsuit, only made tolerable by the knowledge that you’ll soon be getting wet again and chasing down some more “tasty waves.” In fact, most watermen use at least two wetsuits in rotation to avoid just that chilly scenario.

Isurus = form + function

Isurus Founder-Innovator Jim Brateris’ concept was to design wetsuits “for surfing by surfers.” After blowing through two to three wetsuits a year himself, Jim realized that wetsuit quality was being sacrificed with the corporatization of the wetsuit industry. In 2003 he figured there had to be a better way to bring the wetsuit back to its core values and re-engineer it for more discerning and demanding surfers. As Jim says, “We were looking for a different design concept, more suited to the muscular structure of the human body in order to get a better free range of motion,” like that illustrated in the archetypal illustration of ideal human proportions, “Vitruvian Man” by Leonardo Da Vinci.

Isurus, Fit for a Vitruvian Man!

Isurus took their inspiration from triathletes, who have long demanded better-fitting, lightweight, and more buoyant wetsuits from their suppliers—all of which add up to shortened swim times and quicker muscle recovery in later stages of the competition. Such a performance wetsuit provides a clear competitive advantage for triathletes and surfers alike. Like only a couple of other manufacturers, Isurus starts with the gold standard of Yamamoto “closed-cell” neoprene, fused between “hydrophobic linings.” This allows for a much thinner and 50% lighter wetsuit that retains significantly less water than conventional versions. (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rpqivbsGI-4&feature=PlayList&p=250CC809413E3062&index=2)

Yamamoto rubber is the best.

As Brateris explains, “The main difference between the mass-produced and -marketed wetsuits is right here (fingering the wetsuit rubber); Yamamoto has a proprietary process in which they inject nitrogen to get the prime part of the rubber to have a closed-cell neoprene, and that’s all they use, the best part of the rubber. Unlike an open-cell kitchen sponge-like material used in many conventional suits, the stitching will hold much better in a closed-cell structure.”

In terms of materials, Isurus wetsuits also integrate “Aerodome” panels in the front, from the chest all the way down the thighs, and on the back. These are the rubberized air-cell panels adopted by a few manufacturers that not only increase floatation, but heat retention as well. The slick skin surface of Aerodome helps resist wind chill (most of any suit) and actually adds to board traction, as well, when paddling prone. Rounding out the ensemble is a feature adopted from tri-athlete versions, called a “Forward Propulsion System” (FPS). FPS is basically textured rubberized strips on the inside of the forearms that add water traction and adherence with each stroke and, in theory, greater power.

Details, details

The high-end materials choice will only get you so far, and Isurus has taken it a step further, pairing the best in Japanese neoprene with the highest-quality Chinese (ISO 9002-certified) manufacturer. The suits are designed with the panels specifically anatomically structured to mirror body contours, rather than resist them, by taking 20 points of measure compared to the standard 15 points. Isurus suits can generally be worn about one mm thinner year round than comparable suits. That results in a wetsuit that fits much more snugly than conventional suits, ideal for heat retention, blood flow, and dynamic functionality in the water —much more like a custom suit.

Starting a local wetsuit company from scratch with the ambition of taking it to “a higher level” and creating a superior product for the demanding Northern Californian marketplace is a daunting task. But Isurus has found something that has been nearly lost – quality. By using the best materials available, they have dramatically cut the weight without sacrificing warmth and flexibility.

A demanding customer base: Maverick's Contest Opening Ceremony

The I-Elite 343 version is the lightest and highest performance model in the stable and comes with a removable hood. The I-Evade 434 model feels like wearing thermal underwear and sheds wind and water with ease. It has an integral 2-mm front-zip pull-over hood with a buttery yellow lining that just steams when pulled up and is designed to not be restrictive when rolled down, which is nearly anytime the sun comes out (when was the last time you were almost too warm in your 4-3?). The hydrophobic jersey material sandwiched around the closed-cell neoprene also dries extremely fast and retains 80% less water, making double-sesh a breeze.

Maverick’s journeyman Grant Washburn has taken the suit out to his favorite haunts and reported back that he’s used a number of different wetsuit brands and this one “feels totally different and is built really well.” Grant has even taken out the thinnest 3 mil I-Elite version of the suit to Maverick’s without a hood and been quite comfortable. Not only does the cut of the suit aid in paddle recovery, but the improved warmth is the key, as “the biggest enemy out there is the cold, which more than any other single factor burns calories and increases fatigue.”

Grant Washburn

In addition to the superior thermal properties and fit of the suit, Washburn was particularly pleased with the thin, warm hood. “Back in November of 2008 I was nominated for the XXL Wipeout of the Year for a wave at Mav’s that I didn’t make. My wipeout didn’t win, but I did tweak my neck on that fall and it has been sensitive ever since. The ‘slippery stuff’ (slick skin) on the hood helps penetrate the water during spills and the turbulence just doesn’t get the same grip on your head. I wouldn’t be surprised at all if this became the new standard for hoods out at Maverick’s.”

Grant also chuckles that friend and former champion Grant “Twiggy” Baker hauls around a battery-powered blower hanger to dry his wetsuits, which is not needed for the quick-drying Isurus. The whole package works: the lighter weight, the warmth, the flexibility and fit. He even feels “something going on” with the Forward Propulsion System (FPS) on the forearms, aiding in paddle power over numerous strokes, just as with competitive swimmers.

Washburn has known Tim West and his family since he was a little kid and was really stoked when he found out about Tim’s ambition to surf Maverick’s, since there were few locals doing so. Though crowds of elite international surfers mob the line-up now compared to the early days, Grant says he tries to keep it fun and light out there, sharing waves especially on the busiest days. He sees Tim as also keen to have a good time at the break, having a certain “Jay vibe” (Jay Moriarity) about him that transcends the “us vs. them localism” that can infect any spot.

Like most other wetsuits, the Isurus suits occasionally flush through the yoke on the shoulder when you take an awkward fall, but as Grant notes this is almost a relief after you’ve been steaming along and the suit warms up fast. They are also a little more challenging to remove than enter due to that near-custom fit, which feels like a vacuum seal on your body once wet. But this is a “small and acceptable price to pay for the performance advantages, and you quickly figure it out,” says Washburn.

Grant Washburn, cruising on coldest day in 40 years at Ocean Beach, San Francisco

The high-quality Yamamoto rubber is also initially stiffer, but soon begins to mold to your body after a session or two. Isurus is so focused on quality materials and fit that any initial minor issues have already been ironed out in subsequent versions about to be released. Getting the right size with such a tight-tolerance suit is also key, and Isurus offers a wider range of sizes for this reason.

Test Pilot Tim West

Tim West rides a bomb

Tim West grew up in Montara and has been a fixture in serious surf along the San Mateo coast for much of his young career. His stocky build and tenacious attitude have kept the goofy footer firmly planted to his board in frequently heaving and hollow beach break conditions that few others would dare to attempt. More recently he has taken that finely- tuned act to Maverick’s after “doing his homework” on big waves. Montara neighbor and renowned sports/surf writer Bruce Jenkins noted in his recent 3 Dot Blog that “the best of the up-and-coming generation from the Half Moon Bay coastside, West is confident, level-headed and a regular whenever Maverick’s is going off.” His commitment to the spot in all conditions and hard-charging backside attack earned him underground recognition and a slot in the Maverick’s contest as one of only two local invitees. The other is his tow partner Ion Banner. Here is some Powerlines footage of their breakthrough tow session on a mean west swell on December 4, 2007: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=imArpSkBPDE

West out the back

For Tim, “Maverick’s is just something I’ve always since day one been dreaming of– just paddling out there, let alone being in the contest” following years of diligent preparation at other spots. He remembers as a grom working his way up into double-overhead conditions at Ross’s: “Then it was like closed-out Cove, yah. Then it was just CRAZY closed out Cove. Then I’d go out by myself on my Mav’s gun just to practice, and then I’d go out to Scott’s Creek and practice there too. And finally I got geared up and went to Mav’s. I didn’t have anybody to go out with; nobody wanted to go out with me in my generation. I just did it all on my own. I didn’t have that push…”

In turn, Tim has been an incredible role model for younger surfers in the area, especially members of the Half Moon Bay Middle School Surf Team, who he has encouraged and mentored along with Wyatt Fields and others. In his formative years he vividly recalls examples of good and bad eggs in the line-up, and says he drew motivation and determination to succeed from both.

Tim mentors Half Moon Bay grom

Among his most influential surf mentors he credits Ion Banner and Curt Meyers, while Jay Moriarity of Santa Cruz also embodied the positive spirit that he embraces. His dad, Tim Senior, got him started surfing and still keeps him on track in their day jobs as fire sprinkler fitters, setting the bar high as Tim’s number one role model. As a result, nothing could give him more pride that seeing the “local line-ups loaded with local kid-rippers.” The ocean has been his teacher too, of course, keeping him “grounded and clean” and having a huge impact on his performance, attitude, and life.

Tim, Sr. and Tim, Jr.

It’s clear that he sees a lot of himself in the local kids searching for their places in the line-up. He can regularly be found stopping by Sunday team practices, generously handing out surf stickers and advice—checking in on “Tim’s groms,” as his proud mother calls them. Tim went to some lengths to formally invite the entire team to the 2009 Maverick’s opening ceremonies back in October to give the kids “a chance to see how the contest works, meet the competitors, and expand [their] horizons.” The event included the paddle out, heat selections, and dinner, which was a thumping success thanks to the consummate hosting skills of Katherine Clark.

Brateris of Isurus was in touch with Tim West as far back as 2003-4 and broached the idea of a locally-grown wetsuit of superior design. Tim was in on the ground floor and contributed ideas for key features at an early stage for a near-custom suit that was ideal for harsh local conditions in the region. As Brateris recalls, after trading ideas and drawings with Tim before heading off to China, “Tim put on an old wetsuit and he stood there as I traced the new lines with a magic marker on his body to get the design just right and have an accurate prototype to send out.”

Tim grabs rail at Todos

Of the symbiotic relationship, West was stoked to help out a friend and “water the roots locally,” while Brateris felt there really couldn’t be a better test pilot. Tim has tested out the suit this season at Maverick’s and has noted no problems despite numerous beatings. Much like Tim’s polished surfing, “the suit speaks for itself.” Tim is in it to test himself and have fun in big waves, not for photo ops.

He once paddled out with friend Chris Loeswick, only to be vaulted several feet in the air by a ballistic attack from below by a Great White shark. Several TV networks including the Today Show, Good Morning America, and National Geographic were all clamoring for an interview, but Tim refused them all because he wanted to be known for his surfing, not some freak attack. As Tim recalls:

“The only insight I want anyone to get out of that incident is to live each and every day to the fullest. When the shark hit it was unexpected and out of the ordinary. My attention was focused on an epic sunset with one guy out at small Maverick’s and I wanted to get one more good one. Then BOOM. I know anyone can relate-driving a car, walking in a lightning storm, etc. How about the guy who took a meteorite through his chest! One second everything may be perfect and content in your life, and at a moment without notice your one life on this earth can be taken. I’m lucky. I’m lucky to be alive. I’m lucky to walk, shake hands, talk. I’m lucky to be able to surf still at the same place I almost had my life taken. I’m lucky to hug my family and sit down with them at holiday dinner. I’m lucky to experience the next phase of my life, and one day to experience bringing another life into this world. Don’t take it for granted. It is inevitable that one day each of us will wake up and that day will be our last. I’m so thankful that Nov 2, 2005 wasn’t that day for me. So when you see me gone for months at a time in the tropics or off to ‘spot x’ for the weekend, its cuz I know life is short, especially our youth. Live in the now.”

Tim moonlights as a barrel miner in Puerto Escondido

As the first Isurus team rider, West is among a vanguard of five participants in the Maverick’s contest using the suit, with others impressed enough to be willing to plunk down cash for a superior wetsuit in the most challenging proving ground on the planet. Tim has taken to the road as well to hone his skills in the hollow waves of the Southern Hemisphere at Puerto Escondido and Todos Santos in Mexico—prep work for big winter surf at home. He published some insightful “Puerto Journal” entries on his adventures south of the border on the Maverick’s contest website, giving a unique glimpse into the big wave fraternity: http://maverickssurf.com/buzz/press/2009/aug/TimPuerto.php

Here’s an excerpt from his final journal entry on August 26, 2009:

“This was my first trip to the area and definitely not my last. It’s a true test of a waterman to surf this beach, because it is like no other beach break in the world. The local crew has the place wired and gets much respect, not only for surfing well, but for their kindness and good vibes. My two month trip had more of everything than I ever expected—waves, friends, food, culture, landscape and juice smoothies, ha. Thank God for the smoothie bar; couldn’t have pulled it off without that place.

Tim tows into a keg

Thursday was the day pulse #3 showed up. Around lunch time you could hear it from wherever you were on the beach. Thunder-like sets rolling through with a little bit of cloud cover, which meant a possibility of clean evening conditions. During the next 6 hours the swell jumped up dramatically- nobody out. Sure enough the winds shifted offshore as 40 foot waves marched in like a brigade of soldiers, back-to-back-to-back with 10 to 20 wave sets. So I’m sitting on the roof, watching this macking swell flood into town with the most unforgiving close out sets I’ve ever seen, and all of a sudden out of the corner of my vision I see Greg Long running down the street with his Puerto gun ready as ever to tackle one. He, Jaime Sterling, Rusty Long, and Will Dillon were on it. It looked scary, not fun, so I opted out. Big props to those guys for getting out there that evening.

Sunset at Todos

On Saturday, the next day after the big swell (that peaked and A-framed at 40 foot top-to-bottom, no joke) it was still 15-20 foot. So I launched the ski and all morning towed in a few friends that I had met during my stay with a few waves for each and most of them for the first time on a tow board. They all said they got the biggest tubes of their lives and I was more than happy to provide the assist. In fact, it’s just as fun towing people into big waves as surfing them sometimes, especially when you witness how stoked they are at the end of their ride. After towing them for a couple of hours I packed my rig, attached the ski, and B-lined it straight back to Half Moon Bay with an adrenaline rush that still hasn’t gotten out of my system. Livin’ it to the fullest!” –Tim West.

Tim drops in at Todos

It was in Puerto that Tim met and traded waves with Mexican charger Coco Nogales, another well-traveled surfer whose pursuit of bone-crushing waves occasionally finds him outside of his tropical element. Tim put Coco on to the Isurus program and his positive feedback from Northern sessions in Todos Santos and Maverick’s has been invaluable. As Jim Brateris said, “our challenge was to keep him toasty and flexible in Todos and Mav’s this winter.”

Tim doesn’t take big wave surfing lightly and has been methodical in his approach to excelling at Maverick’s. Like others, West cites “Powerlines” videos by Curt Meyers and Eric Nelson (http://www.mavfilm.com/) as providing a library of essential study materials chronicling the break. He has examined the videos backwards and forwards as part of his preparations, and credits them with helping him understand the wave. He has also listened very carefully to interviews of surf legends for any hints or tips on how to handle different risky situations, testing and adding their techniques to his own survival program.

When in the impact zone, one technique is to slip off his board and point it toward the beach, take a couple pencil dives down. Then he will adopt a specific fetal position when closed out in the impact zone, tucking his head and limbs into a cannonball ahead of detonation. Then there are no surprises when it happens and only relief if he pops up sooner. “You always want to go into a comfort zone, because in big waves if your arms are flapp’n around, and you go limp, it’ll rip your arm off. It’ll tear your sockets up for sure.”

West cuts back at Nelscott Reef

It is his mental preparation as well that keeps him calm and alive. On any wipeout he is ready to have his wind knocked out and assumes he will be facing a two-wave hold-down. “Every time I go down I automatically assess in my head that I will have a two-wave hold-down, because if you don’t and you expect that air, your mind is just going to be bummed and you’re going to panic. Even if you broke your arm, even if you’re gashed wide open, it’s survival mode and it’s the instinct that we all have, but most just don’t know it.”

As Tim says, “The suit makes me feel that much more ‘on it’ when I’m in heavy surf. It’s comfortable; it keeps me warm when the air/water temp is really cold; the propulsion system on my forearms improves paddle power. All these factors give me more confidence being out there, knowing I have the best wetsuit pretty much ever made for surfing.”

Maverick’s Contest, 02/13/2010

West paddles out for Heat 3 during Heat 2

West had ample opportunity to put his survival training to the test during Heat 3 of the Maverick’s contest on February 13. His first drop was a long, steep one, nearly making the corner before being devoured and taken down deep. He remarked, “I nearly split my wig open,” and when he came up managed to “get one big gulp of air and one pencil dive before the next hold-down.” Taken through the rinse cycle three times before Garrett McNamara swooped in on a PWC, Tim was so drained and confused that he couldn’t hang on for more than 20-30 feet splayed across the sled sideways before getting flushed again.

West courting the wave on Valentine's weekend

Amazingly, his leash didn’t break and his board was still attached, providing a life line to the surface each time. Finally, Santa Cruz’s Vince Broglio found Tim “gone-fried,” grabbed him, and pulled him through the rocks into the lagoon before swinging back around and taking him back out into the line-up for his second wave. And that one was even less friendly, flipping him on his back and skipping him down the face like a wayward sled at a snow park. Tow partner Banner described Tim’s spill as “one of his worst ‘ragdollifications’ ever.”

Tough date

Warmth and flexibility breeds the confidence to thrive, not just survive, in the unforgiving littoral zone of NorCal. Unlike body armor (and apparently surfers like Tim, who have survived both shark attacks and semi-consciousness) a wetsuit is not indestructible. But made without compromise in terms of materials and fit, it does have the ability to boost your game. Like a new custom board, that thin layer of neoprene, once you get a feel for it, may become the single most important piece of equipment you’ll own.

More photos of Tim West at Maverick’s Contest, 2010:

Heat 3 wave, shot 1

Heat 3 wave, shot 2

Heat 3 wave, shot 3

Heat 3 wave, shot 4

Afterburner time

Mike Wallace has surfed for over two decades on the East and West coasts, Hawaii, Europe, and NorCal. Currently a resident of Moss Beach with his family of four, he can often be found haunting the beaches south of Devil’s Slide in search of the perfect sandbar with his blind dog, Moose.

Jeff Clark Sues Maverick’s Contest on Wednesday, January 20, 2010

richard — Wed, 20 Jan 2010 19:14:20 +0000

Jeff Clark has filed a suit against MSV, organizers of the Maverick’s Surf Contest, for breach of contract. Read more on ESPN, but this quote kinda sums it up:

“I’ve waited patiently and remained quiet in an effort to settle our issues in private, without casting a shadow over the contest that I founded. But it’s obvious MSV has no intention of working this out. They have forced me to file suit in order to move on with my life,” Clark said.

(1/21/2010: SFGate has published an article on this issue.)

UPDATE 11/03/09 Press Release: Maverick’s Contest Opening Ceremony on Friday, October 30, 2009

matt — Fri, 30 Oct 2009 15:40:17 +0000

UPDATE 11/03/09: The following is a press release from Mavericks Surf Ventures, summarizing the Opening Ceremonies on Fri., 10/30:

THE WAIT IS ON FOLLOWING THE OPENING CEREMONY OF THE 2009/2010
MAVERICKS SURF CONTEST® PRESENTED BY SONY ERICSSON

HALF MOON BAY, Calif., Nov. 3, 2009 – The waiting period for the
2009/2010 Mavericks Surf Contest® presented by Sony Ericsson has
officially begun. On a picture perfect Friday afternoon, more than
two-dozen of the best big-wave surfers from around the world, along
with family members, friends, and members of the media gathered on the
beach at Pillar Point to celebrate the opening of the new 2009/2010
Contest season. The only big-wave paddle-in contest on the mainland,
the waiting period for this year’s Mavericks Surf Contest® will last
from November 1, 2009 to March 31, 2010. During this window, the 24
invitees will wait for Mother Nature to conjure up the “perfect storm”
that will produce waves that are 30-40 feet in height. Once such a
swell is on the horizon, the 24 contestants themselves will vote on
whether to call the Contest.

As the invitees and alternates lined the beach for this year’s photo
shoot, they were greeted by a surprise guest. Surfing pioneer Dorian
“Doc” Paskowitz gave a heartfelt speech in which he spoke of how proud
he was of each of these men for the contributions that they have made
to the sport of big-wave surfing. “As long as you surf, surfing will
keep you,” said the 90 year-old Paskowitz, whose son Abraham and
grandson Levi were also on hand. These men were also addressed by
long-time Mavericks surfer Peter Mel, as well as by former contest
champions Greg Long, Darryl “Flea” Virostko, and Anthony Tashnick.
Each man described what surfing Mavericks means to them, and all spoke
of how proud they were to be part of the brotherhood of Mavericks
chargers.

Everyone then paddled out towards Mavericks to continue the tradition
of joining in a circle to honor the new big-wave season at Mavericks.
Mavericks competitor Tim West, Jr. summed up the emotions that were
present in the circle, saying, “The paddle out was rad and was
definitely the most spiritual one I have ever experienced.”

The festivities as well as the perfect weather lasted well into the
evening as the surfers, their families, and friends gathered on the
lawn outside of the Oceano Hotel and Spa for eating, drinking, and
dancing, as well as for this year’s heat drawings. Guests enjoyed
surf-inspired cocktails from Jim Beam, along with Sierra Nevada on
tap, while speaking with excitement about what this season’s El Niño
weather pattern might bring. All agreed that Mavericks Matriarch
Katherine Kelly Clark had outdone herself once again in organizing
this memorable event. Contest invitee Kenny “Skindog” Collins added,
“This was the best opening ceremony celebration ever! Everyone’s
looking good and healthy, and it was great to get together.” Each
competitor also received a gift package that included newly launched
Mavericks sunglasses, belts, and 100% recycled hoodies, a Sony
Ericsson W518A phone, and a limited edition Mavericks/Jim Beam bottle
and blanket.

The Field is Set. Unlike other big-wave contests, Mavericks invitees
draw numbered golf balls to determine whom they will compete against
in the six-man, first round heats. The invitees themselves have chosen
this method of seeding because they believe it mirrors the
unpredictability of Mavericks itself in that “you never know what
you’re going to get.” Below are the official random heat draws
presented in the order they were chosen by the surfers themselves for
the 2009 Contest:

Heat One: Evan Slater, Darryl “Flea” Virostko, Ion Banner, Dave
Wassell, Grant “Twiggy” Baker, Tyler Smith

Heat Two: Peter Mel, Shane Desmond, Zach Wormhoudt, Nathan Fletcher,
Matt Ambrose, Anthony Tashnick

Heat Three: Brock Little, Tim West Jr., Kenny “Skindog” Collins, Josh
Loya, Greg Long, Carlos Burle

Heat Four: Chris Bertish, Grant Washburn, Ryan Seelbach, Ben Andrews,
Shawn Rhodes, Jamie Sterling

Record Prize Purse and Jim Beam Jersey at stake. This year, the
invitees will compete for a record-breaking $150,000 prize purse,
including $50,000 to the Champion. The purse is personally funded by
Mavericks benefactors Moose Guen and Jane Sutherland of MVision, and
Barracuda Networks. Mavericks will also introduce the “Jim Beam
Jersey” to this year’s lineup—a distinctive jersey to be worn by the
2008 Mavericks Champion as he battles to defend his hard-earned title.
Jim Beam will also offer fans a limited edition Contest label along
with a $5,000 donation to benefit Save the Waves—an environmental
coalition dedicated to preserving the world’s surf spots and their
surrounding environments. In addition, a $5,000 “Gnarliest Drop” award
will be offered to the surfer who exhibits the most impressive drop-in
of the day. 2009/2010 Contest Sponsors include Sony Ericsson, Jim
Beam® Bourbon, Barracuda Networks, Moose Guen and Jane Sutherland of
MVision, Facebook, Ustream, the Bay Club, The Corporate Law Group,
Gnarly Head Wines, Sierra Nevada Brewing Co., Airship Ventures,
Vertical Response, Surfer Magazine, Oceano Hotel & Spa, Stormsurf.com,
Rickshaw Bagworks, and Capture Technologies.

************************************************

The 2009-10 Maverick’s Contest Opening Ceremony will be held on Fri., Oct. 30 with a 2:30 PM paddle-out from the tip of Pillar Point Beach. The heat draws will be held at a dinner event later in the evening. The Maverick’s Contest window opens on Nov. 1, 2009 (that’s this Sunday!) and closes March 31, 2010. Contest organizers and the 24 invited surfers hope the earlier contest window along with expected consistent El Niño swells will line up for a great contest day.

Below is the official press release from the Maverick’s Contest organizers, Mavericks Surf Ventures:

THE HIGHLY-ANTICIPATED MAVERICKS SURF CONTEST® PRESENTED BY SONY
ERICSSON RETURNS AMIDST A PROMISING, EL NIÑO SEASON

The Official 2009/2010 Contest Window Will Open on November 1, 2009

HALF MOON BAY, Calif., Oct. 29, 2009 – On just 24 hours notice between
November 1, 2009 and March 31, 2010, 24 of the world’s best big-wave
surfers will be summoned to Half Moon Bay, home of Mavericks, one of
the most majestic and infamous surf breaks on Earth. There, they will
test their individual skills and vie to be crowned champion of the
2009/2010 Mavericks Surf Contest® Presented by Sony Ericsson.
Competitors will face the dangerous elements of the frigid northern
California waters in search of the perfect ride on waves reaching
heights of 30 to 40 feet or more.

“The 24” make the call. And according to Mavericks CEO Keir J.
Beadling, this contest seasons adds a new and exciting element: “This
season we’re embarking on a new chapter, as the Mavericks competitors
will choose the day. Once potentially contestable conditions are
identified, ‘the 24’ will vote and determine whether to pull the
trigger. If they say ‘go,’ we go, and that’s exactly the way it
should be at Mavericks.” Commented longtime Mavericks surfer and
Contest competitor Kenny “Skindog” Collins, “This Mavericks Contest
combined with this season’s El Niño is going to be historic!”

El Niño in-play. Official Surf Forecaster Mark Sponsler of
Stormsurf.com says there is good reason to be hopeful: “The El Niño
season, which has already begun, should bring a higher number of
storms moving from the International Dateline into the Gulf of Alaska
than in years previous. Those storms should have the potential to push
larger and more consistent surf down the Pacific Coast into
California. It’s likely there will be several good opportunities to
hold the contest between now and March 31 when the contest window
closes.”

Once the contestants receive the green light alert, they have just 24
hours to arrive for the event. The international roster of invited
surfers consists of, in alphabetical order: Matt Ambrose, Ben Andrews,
Grant Baker, Ion Banner, Chris Bertish, Carlos Burle, Kenny Collins,
Shane Desmond, Nathan Fletcher, Brock Little, Greg Long, Josh Loya,
Peter Mel, Shawn Rhodes, Ryan Seelbach, Evan Slater, Tyler Smith,
Jamie Sterling, Anthony Tashnick, Darryl Virostko, Grant Washburn,
Dave Wassell, Tim West, Zach Wormhoudt.

Also named were the 15 alternates, in order of priority: Alex Martins,
Danilo Couto, Mark Healey, Tyler Fox, Rusty Long, Nic Lamb, Jamie
Mitchell, Mike Gerhardt, Russell Smith, Kealii Mamala, Garrett
McNamara, Andrew Marr, Lawton Smith, John Whittle, Colin Dwyer.

Presenting Sponsor Sony Ericsson returns. Beadling also announced
that Sony Ericsson is the presenting sponsor of this year’s contest,
adding, “We are thrilled to be able to partner with a company that
shares both our passion for innovation as well as our commitment to
environmental preservation.” On Contest day this season, spectators
can recycle their old phones at the Sony Ericsson tent or take a
minute and recharge their current mobile phones. Any proceeds from the
recycling program will be donated to helping our coastline.
Additional contest sponsors include Jim Beam® Bourbon, Barracuda
Networks, Moose Guen and Jane Sutherland of MVision, Facebook, the Bay
Club, The Corporate Law Group, Gnarly Head Wines, Sierra Nevada
Brewing Co., Airship Ventures, Vertical Response, Surfer Magazine,
Oceano Hotel & Spa, Stormsurf.com, Rickshaw Bagworks, and Capture
Technologies.

Our Backyard. Contest organizers work closely with Gulf of the
Farallones National Marine Sanctuary (GFNMS), to protect the wildlife
and the habitats of the part of Monterey Bay National Marine
Sanctuary (Sanctuary) where the contest takes place. GFNMS enforces
the rules and regulations designed to protect one of the most
productive marine ecosystems on the planet. Since the contest takes
place during a time in which seabirds and marine mammals are engaged
in breeding activities or in migrating through, the sanctuary will
help to minimize wildlife disturbance and provide information to
attendees about minimizing their impact on the environment.

Save The Waves Coalition will again be partnering with Mavericks to
ensure the onsite presence of the Green Team to assist spectators in
recycling and packing their trash on contest day. Additionally Save
The Waves will be announcing the results of research study on the
Value of Mavericks to the local and regional economy which was
executed by the University of Hawai’i at Manoa and Stanford
University’s Center for Responsible Travel. Other environmental
associates working closely with Mavericks to ensure that the ocean,
beach and surrounding area are protected include the San Mateo County
Harbor District, the Fitzgerald Marine Reserve, Thank You Ocean, the
California Coastal Commission, Johns Hopkins University’s Center for
Talented Youth, World Savvy, Half Moon Bay Coastside Chamber of
Commerce Eco-Tourism Initiative, Livability Project, and the San Mateo
County History Museum. More information regarding Mavericks’
Environmental Policy can be found at
http://maverickssurf.com/Help/Environment.aspx.

Alternative viewing options. As part of its ongoing efforts to reduce
foot traffic at the event and entice fans to experience the Contest
remotely, this season Mavericks has launched its most ambitious
webcast offering to-date. Millions of fans witnessed the 2008 Contest
live webcast footage. Mavericks will once again be webcast live over
the Internet—this year bringing an unprecedented level of
interactivity in partnership with Facebook and Ustream. Fans will
also have the option of watching the contest while on the go, thanks
to a deal with FLO TV, provider of the award-winning live mobile FLO
TV™ service. Through the deal with FLO TV, surf fans will be able to
watch the competition on mobile handsets starting on November 1 and on
in-car entertainment systems and consumer electronics devices like the
FLO TV™ Personal Television launching later in the year. The “It’s
On!” SMS campaign will once again allow fans to sign up to receive a
cell phone text message alert as soon as the Contest green light is
given (text “MAVERICKS” to 81595). And the day’s activities will
again be available via a unique live webcast viewing event at AT&T
Park—“baseball’s perfect address” and the home of the San Francisco
Giants. Finally, Jim Beam will host a number of smaller webcast
viewing parties at key west coast bars and restaurants to be
announced. As always, surfers and fans alike can track the waves,
stay informed on Contest announcements, check out Mavericks™ official
merchandise, and buy tickets for the AT&T Park Viewing Event at the
official Mavericks website, www.maverickssurf.com.

About Mavericks™ and The Mavericks Surf Contest®
Every winter season, Mother Nature offers up the ocean’s harshest
conditions and the giant, unpredictable waves that characterize
Mavericks and the annual Mavericks Surf Contest®. Frigid waters,
dangerous currents, jagged rocks and the ever-present threat of the
great white shark. When weather conditions are just right, the 24
chosen surfers will make the official contest call. Once the call is
made, they will have only 24 hours to arrive in Half Moon Bay to face
the extreme conditions, thunderous waves and each other. Coined as
“the wave beyond,” the Mavericks™ brand inspires hardcore athletes to
face the unpredictably raw power of Mother Nature, and stirs the souls
of those who aspire to challenge their own limits. Mavericks remains
true to its core: a cold, mysterious and foreboding place that demands
respect from everyone who goes there and inspires them to attempt the
extraordinary. For more information, including photos, surf
conditions Official Mavericks™ gear, and contest highlights, visit
Mavericks online at www.maverickssurf.com.

2009-10 Maverick’s Surf Contest Goes On Without Jeff Clark

matt — Mon, 07 Sep 2009 03:09:37 +0000

Bruce Jenkins, surf journalist and sports columnist for the San Francisco Chronicle, has published a column with some more information about this year’s Maverick’s Surf Contest being run without Jeff Clark as Contest Director: http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2009/09/06/SP0U19J0IF.DTL&tsp=1 Related posts:Jeff Clark Sues Maverick’s Contest on Wednesday, January 20, 2010 Jeff Clark Out as Contest Director for Maverick’s Contest [...] Related posts:

Jeff Clark Out as Contest Director for Maverick’s Contest

matt — Fri, 03 Jul 2009 22:13:19 +0000

On June 19, 2009, Mavericks Surf Ventures issued a press release (see below), announcing that the 2009/10 Maverick’s big wave season will be in celebration of the 35th anniversary of Jeff Clark pioneering the break. The press release also announces that Jeff Clark will no longer be the Contest Director for the Maverick’s Contest.

Jeff Clark offers his perspective of the “35th Anniversary Celebration” and the Contest Director position in the Half Moon Bay Review and on his own blog.

The following is the text of the press release from Mavericks Surf Ventures:

HALF MOON BAY, Calif., June 19, 2009 – Mavericks Surf Ventures, Inc. (Mavericks) announced today that the upcoming 2009/2010 big-wave season at Mavericks will honor and celebrate the 35th anniversary of Jeff Clark’s first session at the now world-famous break. In the winter of 1975, then-17 year-old Clark first paddled out to the nautical hazard named after a white haired German Shepherd. In a remarkable personal odyssey, Clark then surfed Mavericks completely alone for 15 years before the news media began reporting on the 50-foot waves, house-sized rocks, and bone chilling waters that characterize this treacherous locale.

From those solitary beginnings, Mavericks has become an international phenomenon. The annual Mavericks Surf Contest® brings the world’s preeminent big-wave surfers together on 24 hours’ notice, along with tens of thousands of spectators and millions more who watch the action via television broadcast and webcast. Adding to the drama, the contest is completely dependent on the whim of Mother Nature delivering contest-worthy surf conditions. Some years – as happened this past season – she holds back, as if to give the surfers another year to reconsider their perilous intent. Over the years, the Mavericks prize purse has grown to $150,000, the largest in the history of big-wave surfing competition. In the 2009/2010 season, the invitees will be competing for this record prize purse, thanks to the support of Moose Guen and Jane Sutherland of MVision Private Equity Advisors, and Barracuda Networks.

Coincident with the 35^th anniversary celebration, Mavericks will inaugurate a new Contest Director. Said Mavericks CEO Keir J. Beadling, “Mavericks truly belongs to everyone, so we’re looking forward to democratizing the contest direction process. Studying the seasonal swell patterns, and determining if and when to call the surfers is no small responsibility. We’re excited to pass the torch to the next generation of Mavericks enthusiasts to assure the contest’s continued success.” Beadling then summed up the feelings of everyone in the Mavericks family, saying, “We have all been inspired by the passion and bravery that Jeff has displayed, and will remain in awe of his accomplishments. Jeff’s legacy is forever etched in the history Mavericks.” Meanwhile, Clark continues to serve on Mavericks’ Board of Directors.

Additional details regarding The 2009/2010 Mavericks Surf Contest® season will be announced in the coming weeks.

About Mavericks™ and The Mavericks Surf Contest®

Every winter season, Mother Nature offers up the ocean’s harshest conditions and the giant, unpredictable waves that characterize Mavericks and the annual Mavericks Surf Contest®. Frigid waters, dangerous currents, jagged rocks and the ever-present threat of the great white shark. Mix these with perfect weather conditions, and 24 chosen surfers will get the contest call. When they do, they will have only 24 hours to arrive in Half Moon Bay to face the extreme conditions, thunderous waves and each other. Coined as “the wave beyond,” the Mavericks™ brand inspires hardcore athletes to face the unpredictably raw power of Mother Nature, and stirs the souls of those who aspire to challenge their own limits. Mavericks remains true to its core: a cold, mysterious and foreboding place that demands respect from everyone who goes there and inspires them to attempt the extraordinary. For more information, including photos, surf conditions Official Mavericks™ gear, and contest highlights, visit Mavericks online at www.maverickssurf.com.

Maverick’s Contest Window Closed on Thursday, April 2, 2009

matt — Fri, 03 Apr 2009 02:20:42 +0000

The 2009 Maverick’s Contest window has officially closed. The following press release details the decision and how the 2010 season contest will be conducted:

FOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE
Media Contact
Keir J. Beadling
CEO
Mavericks Surf Ventures, Inc.

Mavericks Announces the Conclusion of the 2009 Contest Waiting Period
Historic $150,000 Prize Purse Will Extend to 2010 Season
HALF MOON BAY, Calif., April 2, 2009 – Mavericks Surf Ventures, Inc.
(Mavericks) announced today that the official waiting period for The
2009 Mavericks Surf Contest® Presented by Sony Ericsson is now closed.
The waiting period began on January 1, 2009 and officially ended on
March 31, 2009. Showcasing 24 of the world’s finest big-wave surfers,
the largest prize purse in the history of big-wave surfing, and four
former Contest Champions, The Mavericks Surf Contest® will return
again next season to the epic Half Moon Bay break.

Every winter season, Mother Nature offers up the ocean’s harshest
conditions and the giant, unpredictable waves that characterize the
Mavericks break and the annual Mavericks Surf Contest®; frigid waters,
dangerous currents, jagged rocks and the ever-present threat of the
great white shark. Mix these with perfect weather conditions, and 24
chosen surfers await the contest call from legendary big-wave surf
pioneer and Contest Director, Jeff Clark. They then have only 24
hours to arrive in Half Moon Bay to face the extreme conditions,
thunderous waves and each other. That much-anticipated call was never
issued this year, however, as contestable conditions did not develop
during the waiting period, and the giant appears to be entering its
annual slumber until next season.

“After consulting with a large number of the Mavericks family—Contest
Director Jeff Clark, longtime Mavericks competitors, agencies focused
on environmental protection and public safety, surf forecasters, and
our sponsor partners—we have decided to conclude the 2009 waiting
period and turn our eyes towards next season,” said Mavericks CEO Keir
J. Beadling. “I want to personally thank our army of more than
five-hundred special human beings and seventy-five committed
organizations for their efforts in getting ready and staying on alert
for Mother Nature this season. It’s a tremendous undertaking unlike
anything else, and we’re very lucky to have such a passionate support
crew.”
Taking Care of Our Backyard. Mavericks is situated in the heart of
one of the most productive marine ecosystems on the planet. The
decision to conclude the contest window was made only after much
deliberation and consultation with Mavericks stakeholders, and due in
large part to the fragile state of the ecosystem in the Mavericks
environs this month. “Mavericks is a natural phenomenon on ‘Hallowed
Ground’ and the organizers, our partners, and the heroes who surf the
break hold the environment in the highest esteem,” commented Beadling.
“Most of our environmental programs are focused on the beautiful
natural environment surrounding the Mavericks break itself, since
that’s where the company got its start and where we have the largest
potential impact. The entire Mavericks family is committed to
preserving the beauty and health of our natural environment, and we
take this commitment very seriously.”

Contest organizers have consulted closely with Gulf of the Farallones
National Marine Sanctuary (GFNMS), an agency dedicated to protecting
the wildlife and the habitats of the part of Monterey Bay National
Marine Sanctuary (Sanctuary) where the contest takes place. GFNMS
enforces the rules and regulations designed to protect one of the most
robust and active marine ecosystems on Earth. Since the contest takes
place during a time in which seabirds and marine mammals are engaged
in breeding activities or in migrating through, the Sanctuary and
Mavericks work together to help minimize wildlife disturbance and
provide information to attendees about minimizing their impact on the
environment.

Extending the waiting period beyond March this season would pose a
unique set of challenges on this front. Said GFNMS Superintendent
Maria Brown, “The sanctuary had already extended the exemption for the
contest period through March. But the presence of listed and
vulnerable species, newly-born harbor seal pups, migrating whales, and
nesting birds make April a particularly sensitive time for wildlife in
the Sanctuary. Any wildlife disturbance by boats, people on foot, and
aircraft can result in mortality. Wildlife conservation is a concern
throughout the entire year, but especially serious consequences can
result if vulnerable species are not able to breed successfully at
critical times during the year, including right now.” Added Beadling,
“We will continue to honor the concerns of GFNMS. Respect for the
environment has been a core part of Mavericks’ DNA since day one. And
we will not overlook this commitment; it’s simply too important.”

Stellar 2009 Sponsor Partners. Mavericks has enjoyed an unprecedented
level of support from its sponsor partners this season. The full 2009
Contest slate of sponsor partners includes Sony Ericsson, Jim Beam®
Bourbon, Moose Guen and Jane Sutherland of MVision, Barracuda Networks
Inc., Sierra Nevada Brewing Co., Oceano Hotel and Spa, CLIF BAR & Co.,
the Bay Club, The Corporate Law Group, Rickshaw Bagworks, Vertical
Response, Surfer Magazine, Sam’s Chowder House, Stormsurf.com, Airship
Ventures, Capture Technologies, Doc’s ProPlugs, Jeff Clark Surfboards
and Mavericks Surf Shop.

Record Prize Purse Rolls Over. Mavericks benefactors Moose Guen and
Jane Sutherland of MVision personally funded half of the 2009 season’s
$150,000 prize purse, and Barracuda Networks doubled it as a show of
support for the amazing athletes who lay it all on the line on Contest
Day. Taking this a step further, all have officially agreed to make
this historic prize purse available again during the 2010 Contest
season. Moose Guen commented, “We appreciate that nature has its
nuances and the conditions were not right this year. Jane and I are
committed to supporting Mavericks, the competition, and most
importantly the surfers. We also are appreciative of Barrucuda
Networks’ support, so that the unique nature of the prize purse is in
place for next season when we all look forward to the best swells
ever.” “We respect and support the decision to conclude the waiting
period for the 2009 Mavericks Contest,” said Michael Perone, CMO and
executive vice president of Barracuda Networks. “We remain committed
to our sponsorship to Mavericks and we look forward to working with
them to help build excitement leading up to what we hope will be a
thrilling contest in 2010.”
See You In September? Longtime Mavericks observers have suggested
that Mavericks consider opening its annual Contest window as early as
November and beginning the promotional period in September, and this
remains a goal of the company. “If we had the support to open the
window in November, we’d be virtually guaranteed a Contest every
season. This past November, for example, delivered some of the most
memorable surf in a decade. If our sponsor partners continue to step
up, imagine what we could do with Contest conditions like that next
season. It would be truly epic,” observed Contest Director and
Mavericks pioneer Jeff Clark. “With the 2010 Contest $150,000 prize
purse now officially dialed in thanks to Moose, Jane, and Barracuda, a
critical piece of the puzzle is already in place.”

About Mavericks™
Coined as “the wave beyond,” the Mavericks™ brand inspires hardcore
athletes to face the unpredictably raw power of Mother Nature, and
stirs the souls of those who aspire to challenge their own limits.
Mavericks remains true to its core: a cold, mysterious and foreboding
place that demands respect from everyone who goes there and inspires
them to attempt the extraordinary. For more information, including
photos, surf conditions, a newly-launched Official Mavericks™ apparel
line, and contest highlights, visit Mavericks online at
www.maverickssurf.com.

“Visceral” Surf Forecasting with Mark Sponsler

mike — Sat, 10 Jan 2009 03:56:03 +0000

[1/5/2010,Editor's Note: With some huge swell on the way and a possible Maverick's Contest vote, we thought this an opportune time to re-post this feature by Mike Wallace. — matt]

[Author's Note: Facts are still mostly relevant a year later after Mother Nature skipped out in 2009, but note that for the first time the contest "call" is not made by one director, but by a democratic majority of the participants, who are rumored to be casting their ballots as soon as Friday, 1/8 (or next week?). — mike]

Sponsler with trusty gun

By day, surf forecaster Mark Sponsler is a lot like Clark Kent, working industriously for a major local health care provider. But by night, Mark trades in his slide rules and algorithms for, well, more slide rules and algorithms. Feeding his addiction for large, clean surf, he fine-tunes his swell forecasting site www.stormsurf.com to cache and sort out all incoming raw data from the NOAA and spit this out in a refined form that we, as surfers, can specifically relate to on SurfPulse.com and Wavewatch.com.

Those who drill into the SurfPulse.com “Report” and “Forecast” pages undoubtedly have located one of the more useful tables of ocean swell information on the site. Nightshift Mark diligently keeps us up-to-date with the projected swell trend, wind speed, swell details, set size, and swell direction each week, sufficiently detailed to give a succinct snapshot of just what’s on the horizon. That’s a lifeline for many of us working stiffs also leading double lives in the workplace and in the water, allowing us to optimize our schedules to fit in a few waves each week.

In addition to his regular updates on these surf sites, Mark is called upon by traveling pros and photographers who draw upon his forecasting skill for contests and the frequent diaspora of surf travel, photo, and film missions around the globe. Eric Nelson and Curt Myers, collaborators on several definitive Maverick’s documentaries, were sent globetrotting by Sponsler for their “Down The Line” video. He directed them to Peahi on Maui for one particularly epic Pacific swell, then to Ghost Tree in Monterey and full-circle back to Maverick’s to chase the same swell again. Nelson says that Mark is the forecasting “guru” around here and he “relies on Mark’s expertise” to be prepared at a moment’s notice to gather footage for their next film. In turn, 2008 Maverick’s champion Greg Long called the Powerlines box set essential “study materials” for his victory and “if this was my classroom, I’d be an ‘A’ student for doing my research.”

Green room with view

Proving that even ‘A’ students can get schooled by Maverick’s, Long was pitched on his very first wave of the epic, exceptionally thick and clean 25-second swell recently on November 29–30. Slammed and driven deep into the pit, he burst an ear drum and was so badly disoriented after a two-wave hold-down that when Jeff Clark swooped in on a PWC, Clark found the big wave hero feet in the air, struggling to swim down to his likely death from the surface, completely upside down. That life-or-death event is one among many in heavy and disturbing footage caught in Powerlines’ compelling new film Ride On, which recently premiered at the Princeton Landing and is slated to show around the Bay Area. (Visit http://www.powerlinesproductions.blogspot.com/ for more information.) Ahead of that swell, Sponsler is caught on film presciently warning even experienced riders to “stay away from the bowl.” Even as the paddle-in envelope was pushed that weekend, PWCs provided the security for paddlers to charge some of the biggest waves ever caught by hand, again proving their place in the line-up.

Drumbeat of Distant Breaks

Sponsler treks out for a surf

Sponsler plays an instrumental role in making the call for the Maverick’s contest each year, having befriended Jeff Clark when Mark and his wife Jane moved out here in June of ’95 from Florida. The couple met working on the Space Shuttle Program at the Kennedy Space Center, not far from the tourist Mecca of Orlando, but found that the space program just wasn’t exciting enough. Instead, they pulled up stakes and plumb headed west to California, touching down in the midst of the Internet and Maverick’s boom.

As fun as the Florida surf spots are, there’s more to surfing than Cocoa Beach, Sebastian Inlet and Reef Road. Fickle Florida surf only fed Sponsler’s appetite for larger, more consistent waves, starting with the typical forays to Cape Hatteras, Puerto Rico and regular pilgrimages to the North Shore of Hawaii with his buddy and prolific Florida shaper, Matt Kechele. The inconsistency of Floridian home breaks tends to breed hunger for MORE among its competitive surfing citizenry, and Mark is no exception to this rule.

Sponsler discussing his equipment

Sponsler got his first taste for big waves in the Hawaiian Islands, and it was Kechele who drove him deeper and bigger at Sunset Beach and Waimea on the North Shore of Oahu. Like many other surf junkies, Mark made the annual winter pilgrimage for a couple weeks each year. In an eerie future connection with Maverick’s, the pair would stay at big-wave maestro Mark Foo’s complex near Waimea “and surf ’till we dropped every day.” Sponsler recalls strolling out at the river mouth at Waimea with a 7′-6″ gun and 6′ leash, clueless in his zeal to tackle a 25′ (Hawaiian) swell; off to his right was a bronzed Foo waxing up a 10′-4″ Rhino Chaser with a 12′ leash. Undaunted, Sponsler scampered back to the rental car and knotted two 6′ leashes together, paddled out and still managed to catch 4–5 waves that day. Foo later infamously surrendered his life after going over the falls on a comparatively tame day at Maverick’s on December 23, 1994.

Early Days of Forecasting

Mark recalls prowling the old Maverick’s surf shop on Main Street in Half Moon Bay on his days off (the shop is now located deep in the dusty heart of industrial Princeton) in search of advice and equipment before starting to paddle out at Mav’s on a regular basis. Jeff and Mark traded e-mails on the outlook for significant-class swells, and Mark’s distribution list eventually exploded to a size where he could justify starting a website of his own. That in turn led to the creation of Stormsurf.com.

1/22/09: Will this forecast make Jeff Clark pull the 2009 Mav's Contest trigger?

Clark once said “Sponsler is the kind of forecaster who doesn’t just give you the heads-up on a good day. He’d have a precise time for the swell’s arrival; so if he said 2 P.M., then the boys would hit the water around 1:30 and find that Mark was right on the money” (as related by Bruce Jenkins).

Pioneering Maverick’s surf photographer Doug Acton harks back to the pre-Internet days when he and Mark would trawl through buoy reports and even harder-to-come-by shipping reports for their swell data, “growing with the surf break together” and sharing information. Truly, it was an insider’s game back then, mapping out readings from the 46006 SE Papa Buoy (600 nautical miles west of Eureka) to gauge the distance of the swell and checking the 46059 California Buoy (357 nautical miles west of San Francisco) for a better bead on its duration and proximity. A friendly “heads-up” e-mail was the result and was passed around between surfer-forecasters and photographers.

That’s all changed now with the democratization of the forecasting business by the Internet. While rival Surfline.com covers the globe, Acton says that Sponsler is still the go-to guy for Northern California: “He came from Florida with a great attitude and was welcomed into the Maverick’s brotherhood.” Jeff Clark agrees that Mark turned a hobby into his “passion,” but the darker side of progress has been the crowds who have come with the more accurate and accessible forecasts, which has “really loaded the line-up.” In fact, assaults on the Half Moon Bay Buoy have been rumored on more than one occasion, aimed at disabling the equipment during peak Maverick’s season. If the swell and period readings go blank, it is possible that sabotage and not nature may be the cause.

Making the Call – A “Visceral” Experience

Sponsler makes it abundantly clear that Jeff Clark makes the call to hold the contest each year, while Mark plays a supporting role, by providing data that pinpoints a swell and then must fit a complex variety of factors that will “reach the minimum threshold to have a contest.” The “minimum” bar is set pretty high, with the swell required to hold at 20-foot (Hawaiian) from the right direction and a sufficiently long period between waves, along with calm winds and a daytime window of at least four hours of low tide during the workweek and not a major holiday. Recall, the last time those conditions came together was for the January 12, 2008 contest (see video below), unfortunately a Saturday, which required some extra arm-twisting of local authorities by the contest director. Several invitees had also been making a beeline to the “Tow-in Classic” at Nelscott Reef in Oregon and had to turn back.

While Mark provides the hard data, Jeff has to consider a variety of soft factors: gambling how deep into the winter season to risk waiting for the ideal swell; gauging whether the surfers would be willing to concede some wave size for clean contestable conditions; and determining whether the Half Moon Bay community would be well served and able to support the contest when Mother Nature decides to play ball. “So I take a very conservative approach and try to recommend swells that meet the ‘letter of the law’ minimum requirements, then Jeff gets the unenviable task of having to make the decision when conditions may be marginal,” says Sponsler. “Typically, on any given swell event, Jeff and I talk days before the storm even forms, then start increasing the number of touch points to maybe 2–3 times daily once the storm has actually formed, and we’re getting confirmed data on sea heights off the Jason-1 satellite and wind speeds from the QuickSCAT satellite. Almost all my data comes directly off of Stormsurf.”

Jeff Clark remembers giving Sponsler the option to make the call for the contest in 2008, since Mark had reservations about the size and consistency of the swell. With a chuckle, Jeff still vividly recalls a message left on his cell phone voicing those doubts. But Clark scanned the data again, noting “the swell came from 3000 miles away with no cross-winds” and decided to pull the trigger anyway. With the exception of a few heats with very long lulls, the waves came, the surfers surfed, and the final was an epic, salvaged in the last ten minutes by a few clean bombs that arrived just in time—thanks to more than a little of that Clark magic. That’s why he’s the contest director.

Sponsler dropping in, back-dooring the peak (1 of 5)

Sponsler dropping in, back-dooring the peak (2 of 5)

Sponsler dropping in, back-dooring the peak (3 of 5)

Sponsler dropping in, back-dooring the peak (4 of 5)

Sponsler dropping in, back-dooring the peak (5 of 5)

Out of all the forecasts he is most proud of for their accuracy and impact, Mark says that without a doubt he’s developed a special relationship with Maverick’s. He’s invested a lot of himself in terms of time and tools to hone his forecasts around this break. Unlike other scientists or lab technicians, his “sampling” process is done not in a white coat with a pocket protector but, more like Superman, by donning a black wetsuit and booties. As he describes it, “The feedback is instantaneous, very detailed and visceral. It’s not like making a forecast, then a few days later looking at a buoy or some cam and saying ‘Yeah, looks like the surf is what we thought it would be.’ Instead, you get to paddle out and see a 20-footer unload on your head and think, ‘Uh, maybe I under-called it.’”

Taking the Weather Personally

Whereas storms in the Pacific are for the most part given anonymous labels like N#1 and S#2, in the Atlantic they take their weather personally, christening them with names like “Bob” and “Andrew.” Considering the human and economic havoc they can wreak (recall Katrina and Gustav), any major storm could bury your home underwater. “The threat was always there and they left quite an impression” on a young lad who was never far from the surf, says Sponsler.

Turning back the dial a decade or two, weather forecasting has been in the Sponsler family for a couple of generations. Growing up in the hurricane catcher’s mitt of Florida and on the vulnerable barrier island of Cocoa Beach, Mark remembers as a kid plotting out storm paths as they bore down on his home break. Insight into weather patterns was tantamount to saving your own neck or potentially your neighbor’s property. Mark’s dad, Leonard, was a closet weatherman and his brother Steve actually worked for the Air Force as a meteorologist for a time, “so it was a frequent topic of conversation around the house,” he confesses.

While other kids were trading baseball cards, as Mark recalls: “Once I started surfing, I started really getting into tracking the storms and mapping their progress and strength, trying to turn that into a surf forecast. Remember, this was before the Internet, before weather radios and before any of the technology we take so for granted now. So I put together some rudimentary forecast tools, mainly based purely on storm tracking, and then tried to correlate those data points to what actually occurred swell-wise on the beach…It was a very organic and natural progression.”

Fast-forward to the present, and he spends roughly 14 hours a week doing routine forecasts on top of the in-demand custom forecasts. Not satisfied standing still, Sponsler has been engrossed in a major technological overhaul of Stormsurf. Scripting all the swell models himself, he has been buried in the upgrade, improving the site and keeping it current with all the new information spawned by the NOAA. It is true that Mark himself is a big beneficiary as he plots his recreation plans across the Bay from the hills of Hayward, heading south to Santa Cruz in the summer, and to Maverick’s and Ross’ Cove in the winter.

Right and Left Coasts

Sponsler cuts back on a section

The contrast between Mark’s formative surfing experience in Florida and current stomping grounds in NorCal couldn’t be starker. In Florida, if there is any surf at all, you paddle out because you never know when that next swell will arrive. In NorCal, you have to learn to pace yourself when the surf is good, banking just enough energy to hit it hard again the next day, especially in large surf. There is also a wider variety of consistent surf in California, ranging from deep-water reefs like Maverick’s to crowded shallow-shelf sandbars, point breaks and other nooks and crannies. Florida surf has significantly less variety, with similar beach breaks stretching for hundreds of miles and, for the most part, one peak not dissimilar to another, other than at the odd groins, jetties, and piers that help accumulate sand and offer some variety.

In terms of surf culture, Sponsler doesn’t see a huge difference in attitude between the two regions, though Florida may have the edge in terms of wave-hunger and opportunism. He has found surfers in both areas fairly friendly if you put in the time and are respectful at the quality breaks—unless you abuse your welcome and your attitude exceeds your skills.

Sponsler ducks for cover

Mark gives a shout-out to a core group of underground warriors who are on it every time Maverick’s breaks, but don’t necessarily make the headlines. Some of the original regulars he surfs with include John Raymond, Bob Battalio, Christy Davis, and August Hidalgo. Among the next generation of addicts are Alex Martins, Matt Cignec, John Bowling, and Mark Alfaro.

In addition to the regulars, there is a whole crew of “fresh faces in the line-up trying to get a piece of the action on well-advertised days,” notes Mark. “That’s OK, but some push themselves pretty hard. You have to understand that even an inconsequential wipeout can have very real physical repercussions. And a bad wipeout anywhere near the peak on a long period swell, well…let’s just say it’s a very long and painful ride to the trauma ward. The odds of a serious injury occurring are actually pretty high. You don’t hear about it, but all the guys above have wipeout horror stories, some of them occurring even on small days. You will not get out without paying a price. And, if you’re not ready to pay, don’t play.” But the 52-year old Clark says the injuries add up over the years, and, though he still gets out there, “the young guys don’t have as much to risk.”

Sponsler swings into a glassy one

Not being able to surf every day, Mark takes his land training very seriously and spends any spare time in the gym. In an example of his diligence, he was once caught striding purposefully across the sands of Montara State Beach like John Cleese to the Ministry of Silly Walks… ”Firing up the quads before jumping in the water,” he sheepishly admitted.

Not big on breath-holding exercises, he combines his weight training with balance and fitness work on a “Bosu ball.” He credits being able to balance with eyes closed and training the minor muscle groups for the confidence to take a big drop even when blinded by spinnakers of offshore spray. Like Mark “Doc” Renneker and Clark himself, Sponsler reckons he can push the age envelope in giant surf through superior fitness and preparation.

Maverick’s—A “Technical” Wave

Compared to his early big-wave experiences surfing Waimea, Sponsler describes Maverick’s as a much more “technical” wave. Whereas Waimea is a huge drop, bottom turn and then point toward the shoulder, Maverick’s is “a full carveable wave. You drop, turn off the bottom, turn off the top and then set yourself up to race through a series of sections over a 400-yard field. There’s a large canvas to work with between the main bowl and Mushroom Rock… and beyond.”

On December 22, 2000, the author witnessed Jay Moriarity being whipped into the outside bowl by tow-in partner Clark and kicking out at Mushroom Rock some 45 seconds later. Jeff had rolled up on the ski with Moriarity and told the paddle-in die-hards: “The sun’s going down, it’s 25-foot and we’re going to show you the future” (a future now dimmed by the partial marine sanctuary ban on PWCs). As he looked back over his shoulder, he saw Jay disappear into a cavernous, silhouetted barrel all the way from the bowl to the channel.

Sponsler, Moriarity, Clark & Renneker share a moment

After witnessing that, the flotilla on the shoulder was just screaming, and Jay just kept on going. Sponsler remembers Moriarity as one of the most inclusive and friendly guys in the line-up and on shore. He submits for the record a photo of Jay, Jeff, himself and Doc Renneker as evidence of a Maverick’s bond that transcends even that disparate group.

“It all depends on the board you’re riding and what your goals are. If you have the guts, you can get tubed, or you can do full-on cutbacks. It’s almost futile to try to describe in words the experience of growing to know that wave over more than a decade. It’s an ongoing evolution and I’m still learning,” says Sponsler. Even after cutting his big-wave teeth in Hawaii, Mark admits he was “totally clueless” when he started at Maverick’s. Now in his fourteenth season, after logging hundreds of hours of water time, and even more time forecasting for the break, he sees Florida as “a whole planet away.”

Attack of the Purple Blobs

And the relevance of all his hard work for others? For newcomers to surfing, paying attention to Mark’s forecasts frankly could save your life, when those red and purple blobs start appearing on the radar screen, come winter when conditions change quickly. A trawl through the Surfpulse.com “News” section reveals as recently as October 25, 2008 “an inexperienced surfer” rescued by the U.S. Coast Guard at Ocean Beach near the Cliff House, after “having trouble getting in.” That swell peaked at 16-foot and 25-seconds and, according to Maverick’s regulars, rammed through sets of as many as 15 double-overhead-plus waves followed by hour-long lulls. Not conditions for a newbie at an exposed beach break like OB, something his reputed “friends” should have known.

“Though a hurricane can generate waves with periods in the 14-second range, storms headed for Maverick’s can generate waves with periods at 25 seconds or greater, the most powerful waves on Earth short of a tidal wave.” (Sponsler, from Inside Maverick’s; Acton, Jenkins, Washburn)

Hollow tidal wave; any takers?

Another inexperienced surfer who was not so lucky was Sean Fahey, who died on January 22, 2006 after tangling with a medium-sized but extremely hard-breaking 7-foot, 16-second northwest swell, which detonated that day on OB’s ferocious inside bars. Maybe surf shops should require that first-time wetsuit and board buyers complete a tutorial of wave forecasting and condition assessment before entering the water. More experienced surfers know their limits and all target their search with resources like SurfPulse, Stormsurf, Wavewatch, and Surfline.

Refining Equipment

Mark is readily identifiable in the surf by his friendly demeanor and his shock of red hair, which he usually keeps tamed under a hoodie. He unabashedly flies those colors on his boards as well, most brightly tinted with oranges and yellows. Kechele still shapes all of his short boards, while he goes for local knowledge when it comes to his big-wave equipment. He gets his guns hand-crafted by Clark and Randy Cone, and credits a consistent working relationship with “shapers who have a shaping style that fits what I’m looking for. Then I can experiment and try new things with the boards and don’t have to worry that the fundamentals won’t be there.”

Favorite 10'-2\

Sponsler sees little comparison between his short boards and his Maverick’s guns. He describes his short boards as pulled-in potato chips, generally thinner than favored in the hard-breaking NorCal surf. A typical board would be 6′-3″ up to 8-foot in length, 18-3/4″ in width and 2-1/4″ in thickness, favoring very low-volume rails and pintails with thruster or quad fin setups. He also prefers a little more “V” in his boards than is currently in vogue, along with a lot of tail rocker to free up the board and make up for the lack of volume in the bow and stern. Up close, you’d swear you could actually shave with the tail of one of his short-boards. In contrast, the only trait Mark’s guns share with his short boards are the extreme tail rocker. He has been experimenting recently with smaller Mav’s equipment in the 9′-0″ to 9′-6″ range, but his favorite all-around gun is a 10′-2″ Clark that’s 3-1/4″ thick and 19-1/2″ inches wide.

Past and present converged when a close friend visited from Florida, who also happens to be a hot surfer. Says Sponsler, “I handed him one of my Mav’s boards (the 10′-2″ Clark). He stood there holding the 3+inch thick gun, with the skinny little pintail sinking into the grass and the nose pointing straight up into the blue California sky. Looking at it for a few moments, trying to get his head around the board, he said finally, ‘I can’t even imagine riding a wave so big that I’d need a board like this.’ The funny thing was, that wasn’t one of my bigger boards.”

Down to a Gnat’s Eyelash

For the winter ahead, Sponsler says that he is not especially optimistic in terms of large, clean surf. The dominant Pacific weather pattern is still a weak La Nina configuration. In contrast, her brother, the more muscular El Nino, “is almost a guarantee of large surf, but often you get a lot of weather with those swells, too.” While he’s been tinkering with long-term forecasting for the last decade or so, he’s come around to the idea that a strong La Nina may also boost storm and swell activity in the eastern Pacific—within the Maverick’s window. What appears to be happening lately is that neither phenomenon is dominant and “you get a grey area in between these two extremes where the potential really drops off.” In the past couple of years, a weak and late El Nino has been replaced by a frail La Nina, and the period during that transition “was the worst season we ever had.”

The heated sibling rivalry between the two long-term weather patterns tends to have less direct impact on Southern Hemisphere swells generated in the summertime. But Sponsler is coming around to the notion that, especially in transition, the Southern Hemi season can provide a preview of what’s to come the next winter. In this case, we had a pretty unproductive summer, which corroborates his pessimism about the potential this winter. “Of course, you can map it all out and track it down to a gnat’s eyelash (or butterfly’s wings), and then nature will always do something you don’t expect. But, in general, I believe there is much value in and a reasonably high degree of correlation between long-term forecasts and what eventually occurs.”

Mr. Jones

So the next time you scan the forecast pages in hopes of satisfying your surf Jones, be thankful that someone like Mark is working late on the night shift to keep you in the loop. With today’s resources on the Internet, it is all too easy to take for granted such valuable swell information and all the hard work that has gone into perfecting it. And, if you pay attention and time just it right, you just might catch him out there on an epic day.

Sponsler on an old gun

Maverick’s 2008 Surf Contest Report: Notes from the Channel

mike — Mon, 14 Jan 2008 01:31:44 +0000

by Mike Wallace

January 12, 2008

We can’t all get out to the channel at Maverick’s or see much from the cliffs over a mile away, and the best view for non-participants of the Maverick’s contest is truly the live webcast at PacBell Park, or, even better yet, from the safety of your own laptop. But the following is one observer’s impression of the circus at sea from the front lines.

Though StormSurf forecaster Mark Sponsler allegedly had reservations about the call to hold the event Saturday after doing some secondary analysis, the overall conditions couldn’t have been better and kudos go to Jeff Clark for pulling the trigger and setting the wheels in motion on Thursday. It was a bluebird day, the kind you usually witness from the cornice of some Sierra mountain top, only the slopes are moving, jacking and coming at you with deadly purpose. The waves came, perhaps not as consistently as some competitors might have wished, but the scene was pristine and spectacular all the same.

After the sun came up and the morning mist burned off, the heats got off to a slightly later start than the 8:00 A.M. scheduled. Watching the wave bend and warp on the reef from close proximity took away some mystique and at the same time re-instilled fresh awe. It was not the big, raw tow-in-only Maverick’s of December 4, shrouded in fog and surging with up to 80-foot faces. The swell peaked out overnight at about 12 foot and 21 seconds, roughly translating into waves of up to 20 foot, with anywhere from 20–40 foot faces. By the time of the contest, the swell settled in the 10 foot and 18 second range, tame enough to be ridden both left and right during the early heats into the rising tide, which peaked at just over 5 feet at about 12:30 P.M.

Maverick's Contest 2008, dropping right

High tide took some consistency out of the heats, not giving enough waves to go around for the six competitors in each heat, though rogue sets appeared regularly enough to remind the surfers that it was still the real deal. Unfortunately, that made positioning very challenging: should you bag a couple insiders to get points on the board, or wait patiently for a bomb on the outside to make an impression on the judges? Sometimes the pack got caught in between and more than one large set went unridden as contestants opted out of the steeper, make-or-break slabs. Active surfers like Sterling, Washburn, and Smith, among others, got through the early rounds, but quality and wave selection weighed heavily in the end. Some barrels were attempted without exit, bottomless drops were many, and longer rides were taken all the way to the inside reef pass, just for the joy of it.

Maverick's Contest 2008, Deuce on the Face

On the spectators’ boats in the channel it was truly like Water World, or Mad Max with life jackets, with PWCs (personal watercraft) darting in and out and surfers interspersed. Diesel was belching from the larger vessels like the Huli Cat and Rip Tide, which concentrated on holding their line between the contest buoy markers positioned to keep the swirling boats at a safe distance and marshaled back and forth by the Coast Guard, as well as by the harbor and contest water patrols.

Light afternoon onshores eventually helped clear out the fumes. Near-misses were constant and it was a mad scrum to maintain separation and visual contact with the line-up. Sometimes it was hard to distinguish the contest in the line-up from the battle in the channel. All manner of craft were in water: surfers who just paddled out to watch, PWCs, shrimpie motorboats, a catamaran, several fishing trawlers and a huge flotilla of power boats. Some vessels were flash, shiny and decaled to the helm. Others were motley and spray-painted in graffiti. It truly takes all kinds of folks to be surfers and to be spectators.

Maverick's Contest 2008, Pushing the Lip

High speed shutters whirred on the Huli Cat press boat at every dramatic air drop or gut-wrenching plunge into the pit as surfers were swatted from their perch on the ledge. The collection of telephoto lenses gathered on the starboard side of the boat actually appeared heavy enough to tip the boat over on more than one occasion. Those watching from land appeared as colorful ticks dotting the cliffs all the way around from Ross’s Cove to the harbor. Flyovers by a couple different helicopters and private planes served to amplify the surreal atmosphere.

Maverick's Contest 2008, The Grant Washburn Grin

The closing ceremonies on the beach were a simple, but heart-felt affair and a tribute to the character it takes to regularly challenge such conditions. The final results were (1) Greg Long; (2) Grant “Twiggy” Baker; (3) Jamie Sterling; (4) Tyler Smith; (5) Grant Washburn; and (6) Evan Slater. Long, from Southern California, was very humble about his victory and honored to share waves with such watermen. He revealed that following a lull 10 minutes into the final, the group of six agreed to split the $57,000 pot ($30k for first place), no matter who won, and just share the pure joy of surfing the spot with a small group of friends, though Long admitted he would hold on to the oversized cardboard check himself. That move by the group really transcended the event and showed a class and commitment to the sport of big wave riding, which more often than not, depends on crazy last-minute global logistics and the kindness of others. Hawaiians have a word for it, “Ohana,” that means extended family, embodied in the bond shared by these brothers of the sea.

Jamie Sterling received the Jay Moriarity Memorial Award from an emotional Clark for his similar traits of outgoing friendliness and character on land and in the water. Sterling had to hop a flight right back to Hawaii for the prestigious Eddie Aikau Big Wave Invitational at Waimea Bay, along with Hawaiians Garrett McNamara, Dave Wassel, and Brock Little, Australian Ross Clarke-Jones, and Californians Peter Mel, Darryl “Flea” Virostko, Greg Long and Anthony Tashnick. Off they go again to the next big wave event, a little weary, a bit salty and still glowing from the perfect day at Maverick’s.

(Editor’s Note: The Eddie was called off on Jan. 13 due to inconsistent conditions.)

Maverick's Contest 2008, The Results Board

Full heat-by-heat results can be found on: www.maverickssurf.com.